Wiring geniuses needed. Electrical gremlins, Need help tracing wiring issues. Options

[brandomc]

Hi everyone, it has been a while since i posted on here. Last time i was having issues with a used 1.7 i put in my car. Since then, i built a 2056 and got the car running and driving. As i was out breaking in the engine my coil vibrated loose, slid into my throttle linkage and shorted out my ignition system. The positive wire to the coil melted and combined itself with the negitive coil wire. I pulled the engine harness out of the car and fixed the two wires that got toasted, but now the car has no power to the coil when i turn the key on. I have been trying to use the wiring diagrams in the haynes manual to trace the circuit, but i have been unable to figure it out. Those wiring diagrams suck, they look like they were photo copied 3 or 4 times before they made it into the manual.
I also pulled my relay board and did a continuity test to at all the corisponding terminals and the board checks out ok. Im not sure where to go from this point. It doesnt look like there are any fuses anywhere for this circuit. There are some other electrical issues too, but getting the car running is #1 priority. I pulled the fuse pannel down from the dash and the wires that hook to the fuse for the blinkers were melted. The blinkers havent been working on the car, so somewhere there is an issue with that circuit as well. Ignition circuit first though. Anyone have any expertise in this area?? Please help. I must show these gremlins who is really in charge!!

[Spoke]

The best I can tell there is no fuse in line with the ignition switch and the coil.

Without a diagram, let me describe how the coil gets its power:

Starting at the battery POS terminal, a wire runs from the POS terminal to pin 30 on the ignition switch to power everything.

When the ignition switch is turned to run or start, pin 15 is connected to pin 30 and thus 12V from the battery is on pin 15.

Pin 15 from the ignition switch runs to the hot side of fuse #8 in the fuse panel. "Hot" means this side powers the fuse. This wire is BLACK.

Another BLACK wire runs from the HOT side of fuse 8 to pin #8 of the 14-pin connector on the relay board.

As this trace runs across the relay board, it provides power to the 8A fuse which does not seem to be used in the relay board for models up to 71.

This trace also provides power to the coil for the FI power supply on pin 86 and provides power to the coil for the heater blower on pin 86.

The trace finally exits the relay board on pin 7 of the 12-pin connector and heads over to the coil.

Now that you're confused some things to check when the ignition is in the RUN position:

Check voltages starting at the coil.
1) Check voltage BLACK/RED wire to the coil. From ground you should measure 12V. If not:
2) Remove the 12 pin connector on the relay board and measure 12V to ground on pin 7. If not:
3) Measure voltage on the 8A fuse holder on the side closest to the engine. Measure 12V to ground. If not:
4) Drop the fuse panel and measure 12V on the HOT side of fuse #8. The HOT side of fuse #8 should only a couple of BLACK wires on it. The other side should have a whole bunch of wires of different colors.

When you finally pick up 12V along this path, you have located the open wire. Let us know what you find.

WARNING: Before making any changes above, disconnect the battery NEG and reconnect the NEG only when you are sure everything is stable especially when dropping the fuse panel. Remember there are no fuses in this path and you can fry wires very easily.