Brake pressure regulator |
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Brake pressure regulator |
watsonrx13 |
Mar 5 2010, 05:29 PM
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#1
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,734 Joined: 18-February 03 From: Plant City, FL Member No.: 312 Region Association: South East States |
Eric's ad selling the 912 rear calipers started a discussion about the brake pressure regulator. I'd like to continue that discussion. Eric mentions that he wouldn't replace the regulator with a 'T' fitting. What I would like to know is how could you test the regulator off of the car? At $300 - $400 a piece from the dealer I would like to test mine before I purchase a new one.
Also, Eric mentioned that the front calipers shouldn't be used on the rear, even with the regulator. Is there any problem installing a set of rebuilt rears on and not installing the parking brake cables? Any thoughts and suggestions are welcomed. BTW, I'd like to keep this discussion only for the 4-lug wheels. Also, what are the thoughts about replacing the master cylinder with the larger one how does that effect the brake biasing? -- Rob |
Eric_Shea |
Mar 6 2010, 06:20 PM
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#2
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PMB Performance Group: Admin Posts: 19,278 Joined: 3-September 03 From: Salt Lake City, UT Member No.: 1,110 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Tom,
For your car (and about 90% of the others out there), stock brakes, new lines, new fluid and awesome pads should throw you through the windshield at the cones course... and deliver on the lawn at Monterey. Word of Caution on Master Cylinders: There are Chinese 19mm Master Cylinders out there. I'm not your average import hater etc. but, there have been far too many failures with these units for me to recommend them. Only purchase ATE Master Cylinders for your car. If it's under $200.00, it's probably way jacked up in price and "not real". I know it goes against the grain for the duct tape and zip tie crowd but, this is a place where you don't want to take a chance. |
BRAVE_HELIOS |
Jul 23 2010, 11:13 AM
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#3
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"Knowledge speaks, wisdom listens" Group: Members Posts: 295 Joined: 25-September 06 From: The Land Of ID! Member No.: 6,920 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Tom, For your car (and about 90% of the others out there), stock brakes, new lines, new fluid and awesome pads should throw you through the windshield at the cones course... and deliver on the lawn at Monterey. Word of Caution on Master Cylinders: There are Chinese 19mm Master Cylinders out there. I'm not your average import hater etc. but, there have been far too many failures with these units for me to recommend them. Only purchase ATE Master Cylinders for your car. If it's under $200.00, it's probably way jacked up in price and "not real". I know it goes against the grain for the duct tape and zip tie crowd but, this is a place where you don't want to take a chance. How does this all apply to the addition of V8 weight and power? The instructions I have from Renegade states that I should replace the regulator with a "T" fitting, which I have done, although I have not tested it. Is there a difference/advantage with the V8? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) Thanks! |
Tom_T |
Jul 23 2010, 12:43 PM
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#4
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TMI.... Group: Members Posts: 8,318 Joined: 19-March 09 From: Orange, CA Member No.: 10,181 Region Association: Southern California |
Tom, For your car (and about 90% of the others out there), stock brakes, new lines, new fluid and awesome pads should throw you through the windshield at the cones course... and deliver on the lawn at Monterey. Word of Caution on Master Cylinders: There are Chinese 19mm Master Cylinders out there. I'm not your average import hater etc. but, there have been far too many failures with these units for me to recommend them. Only purchase ATE Master Cylinders for your car. If it's under $200.00, it's probably way jacked up in price and "not real". I know it goes against the grain for the duct tape and zip tie crowd but, this is a place where you don't want to take a chance. How does this all apply to the addition of V8 weight and power? The instructions I have from Renegade states that I should replace the regulator with a "T" fitting, which I have done, although I have not tested it. Is there a difference/advantage with the V8? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) Thanks! PM or email ERic the brake meister directly on this, or call PMB - if he doesn't answer you here. The main diff. I can think of is a V-8 weighs a f*ck of a lot more than a T-4 alloy flat 4 or 2.0 alloy flat 6 - plus the weight/CG is much higher on a upright engine vs. a pancake. IIRC Eric said in this thread that the regulator's bias on the 914-4 vs. 914-6 is a bit different (by a couple of % points), & that may be due to the 270 lb. heavier (IIRC) Porsche pancake 6 over the 1.7/1.8/2.0 L T-4's. |
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