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stateofidleness |
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#1
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 810 Joined: 1-September 07 From: Canyon Lake, Texas! Member No.: 8,065 Region Association: None ![]() |
The pelican article assumes a lot. One picture and vague directions such as "remove both bolts", with no mention of their location, size, etc.
I've never messed with the brakes before so I don't know what all I'm looking at. Since the hardline nut is a perfect circle now (wow...) i had to cut it in half, now I'm trying to remove the caliper from the car (rear drivers) and don't know the order or which bolts to loosen. I have taken the parking brake cable off, and removed the 90angle little clips, but not sure where to go from there... can someone post some pics of the bolts the hold the halves together and maybe their size? any other trips/tricks/pitfalls to avoid will be greatly appreciated as well! brake bleeding job has turned into a "replace every 40yr old part of the brake system" job... sigh. had to go buy some flare wrenches too, never heard of them before this! |
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type47 |
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#2
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Viermeister ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,254 Joined: 7-August 03 From: Vienna, VA Member No.: 994 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region ![]() |
If the middle part you refer to is the pads, springs and pins, no, you don't have to remove them (unless the pads are binding on the rotor). Did someone say to disconnect the parking brake cable? There, I said it. Bolts are big, maybe 17mm or 19mm wrench size. You might consider a "line wrench" (edit: AKA flare nut wrenches) to loosen or disconnect the hard line at the caliper to enable you to rotate the caliper off the rotor. If attaching nut is rounded off, probably a vise-grip as you'll want to replace the line. I think the adjusters you refer to are inside the caliper, nothing to do with removing the caliper (unless the pads are frozen to the rotor preventing caliper removal)
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