My Official 914 Restoration, The Black Beast is coming to life!!!! Options

[EdArango]

OK.....You guys must think I'm nutz by now!!

Over the last couple of weeks my son and I have decided to keep the car and begin re-doing it. As most of us I would love to have a 6 cyl. but cash and time is preventing me from moving forward with that idea.

What I think I'll do is clean this car us as much as I can, get the rust issues taken care of (see pics)....(I don't know the the PO was thinking, there is expansion foam in all the openings in the car, such as hell hole & pass. longs)..... upgrade the engine to 2056, leave it as a 4 lug but upgrade the suspension, add a front sway-bar, change out the A-arm bearings with the Elephant stuff and I think I'll be good to go for a while.

What do you guys think????????

ED

[Tom_T]

Ed - Man - I want my garage to look like yours someday!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
... if that is one of those Craftsman 33 gal 150 psi compressors - how do you like it? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
They're on clearance sale now, & I'm thinking about getting one. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

Engine Thots -

Check out Jake Raby's MassIVe website (over in GA) & the website for FAT Performance here in Orange - both are noted Type IV engine builders.

http://www.aircooledtechnology.com/store/

http://www.fatperformance.com/

If you want to go full bore hopped up, but stay "bolt in engine with minimal mods - then look at a 2270 cc with carbs, you can get 145+ hp & a ton more Torque - all at 200-300 lbs. LESS than a 6 (BTW - original 914-6 was only 110 hp & about the same torque as the 2.0 T-4 but at much higher rpm). It's all a matter of how much you want to spend, & how much the wife will allow! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Rust issues -

1. The foam & injection into the crevices was a factory measure thought to prevent the rust, but the porosity actually held the moisture & made it worse! So that was a DAF not a DAPO! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

2. Pull off your engine bay heat pad & check it for rust, since I can see that hole behind the pass. seat, & it's likely on the other side & all along the engine tray to firewall joint. Unfortunately our 73's & earlier 914s with the early engine lid rain trays would warp from the engine heat, then dump water onto the engine bay firewall heat/sound pad, & the sisal backing on that will hold moisture against the firewall until it rusts through - & it seems to collect at the bottom of the pad along the engine shelf there! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

3. Also pull off your steering rack cover pan & poke around up behind there - esp. where the steering cross-member struts are welded to the underpan, & it's usually worse on the pass. side due to past washer bottle/hose leaks draining down into the crevice below the tanks.

4. Other favorite rust hiding spots are: under that lovely factory foam, floor pan tar (IIRC you already did that) & seam sealer, around the windshield & sail/rollbar trim, under the outer door seals (esp. at the door bottoms), under the F trunk seal in the channel, under the headlights, at the horn, fog light & F&R bumper attachment points, F & R trunk floors, L&R rear door jambs, under the cowl seals, oh ..... & just about anywhere else! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

5. It looks like you'll need a major hell hole & pass long repair - so do the suspension console, longs, inner wheel well, battery tray/support, firewall, engine shelf(ves), jack tube/support, etc. all at the same time & fix it right from the git-go! Restoration Design has most/all parts for that, & are a member vendor here (may be a member discount at their posting.

Suspension & Wheel Thots -

If you're using it for street use or even AX, I don't know that Elephant is necessary, since the OEM bearings were pretty good & are still available (FAG is one OES for them still around today). My 73 2L had factory F & R sways which seemed to help in cornering a lot, so adding either factory or aftermarket sway(s) is a good idea, although some AXers & Racers say the rear sway is unnecessary. IMHO they help keep the car level in hard turns & not lift a wheel so much.

If you stay with 4 lug wheels, the Fuchs 2L are about 10 lbs. each & the Mahles & then Pedrinis are only a little more (someone weighed them & had a chart on here somewhere), & those being "factory issue" wheels for the 914 would meet their specs for stress in hard corners. That is - if you're looking to change wheels.

I've also heard some folks say that the later repop Rivieras are not as strong as those wheels, although I've had the old original 70's Rivs on mine since I bought it used back in 75 & never had any problem - so maybe the old originals aren't bad, but they may weigh more than the 3 factory wheels. Rivs were never a factory wheel, although many dealers would be happy to put them on a customer's 914, as with the Western/Gurney, Empi & other aftermarket wheels back in the day - for a price!

I can't tell which type you have on there, but the old Rivs had a smooth rim with no lip on it (to discourage the use of clamp-on balancing weights). FYI for your comparison - here's a pic of one of my original Rivs, still with the original Riv logo bullet caps, they're not heavily oxidized but rather are the brushed aluminum finish (rather than polished, not have they been cleaned since she went on blocks in my garage in 85)) -



Tires, well that's a whole nutha subject, & varies widely by your driving, use of the 914 on & off street, personal preferences & everybody's opinions are different!

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