Rebuilding the rear brake with some “small” problems, Castle nut does not move - wtf!!! Options

[draganc]

Hi everybody!

I’m in the progress of rebuilding my rear brakes and are having problems loosing the rear castle nut, which holds the shaft.
Not really a surprise since the car was sitting for the last 8 years w/o usage.

I have used W40 for several days. No result. I have torched (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) (only with a hand/propane torch) the nut several times up to about 650F. Used a torque wrench while the nut is cold and hot. No result - after 5 hours.

I’m sure someone else had a similar problem.

Any tips advise? Did anyone ever cut the nut of the shaft? How did it work out? Which tool did you use? Will a Dremmel work?

Thanks a lot for any advise/tips.
Dragan

[draganc]

Here a little progress report:

1) snapped my breaker bar at the bend – I’m glad the kids were not home.

2) researched PB Blast and Kroil. Thank you porschemikey!!
Based on all the comments I found about both products, you could conclude that Kroil works as good as PB Blast but much faster.

Though, after reading both MSDS, I got a can of PB Blast at Lowes for $4.
Why? Kroil’s MSDS lists following toxic chemicals: Aliphatic Alcohol, Glycol Ether and Trimethylbenzene. I don’t know the first compound but Glycol Ether can make you blind and Trimethylbenzene can effects your brain functions and harm your reproduction organs. PB Blast appeared to be safer. Of course you should always be aware how you handle any chemical i.e. Vodka, Tequila or Jaegermeister.

3) applied PB blast several times over the past hours, but w/o any progress. BUT, I applied that stuff as well on the nut that holds the shock……and….got that sucker off. Hurray. Wouldn’t move before.

FYI, PB Blast is easily available at Lowes and others. If you want Kroil, go to their webpage (http://www.kanolabs.com/google) and you will be able to place a online order.