Rebuilding the rear brake with some “small” problems, Castle nut does not move - wtf!!! Options

[draganc]

Hi everybody!

I’m in the progress of rebuilding my rear brakes and are having problems loosing the rear castle nut, which holds the shaft.
Not really a surprise since the car was sitting for the last 8 years w/o usage.

I have used W40 for several days. No result. I have torched (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) (only with a hand/propane torch) the nut several times up to about 650F. Used a torque wrench while the nut is cold and hot. No result - after 5 hours.

I’m sure someone else had a similar problem.

Any tips advise? Did anyone ever cut the nut of the shaft? How did it work out? Which tool did you use? Will a Dremmel work?

Thanks a lot for any advise/tips.
Dragan

[draganc]

Victory - I have conquered the castle nut!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

I sprayed the nut sparingly with PB blast for the last 24 hours and it took only 4-5 zaps with a impact wrench and the nut came just off.

These are the little excitements that keep me working on my old cars.

Next question: What kind of anti-seize product are you using to avoid the same hassle 5-10 years later?

@ racer chris, yeap, that's what I did (2 bolts in the hub and a large bar against the ground). now that I have a brand new kick ass engine and some cool pipes in my garage I can't be stopped working on my car. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

PS: My final words about MSDS and the choice of product. Yes Kroil is available in CA and can be ordered via the internet – that’s why I add their link in one of my posts. I didn’t want to promote one over the other products. Just a few words of caution to my fellow 914 community. If you read and compare the MSDS of PB blast and Kroil, Kroil appears to be more toxic then PB Blast – this doesn’t mean that PB Blast is harmless, just less harmful then Kroil.

[realred914]

Victory - I have conquered the castle nut!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

I sprayed the nut sparingly with PB blast for the last 24 hours and it took only 4-5 zaps with a impact wrench and the nut came just off.

These are the little excitements that keep me working on my old cars.

Next question: What kind of anti-seize product are you using to avoid the same hassle 5-10 years later?

@ racer chris, yeap, that's what I did (2 bolts in the hub and a large bar against the ground). now that I have a brand new kick ass engine and some cool pipes in my garage I can't be stopped working on my car. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

PS: My final words about MSDS and the choice of product. Yes Kroil is available in CA and can be ordered via the internet – that’s why I add their link in one of my posts. I didn’t want to promote one over the other products. Just a few words of caution to my fellow 914 community. If you read and compare the MSDS of PB blast and Kroil, Kroil appears to be more toxic then PB Blast – this doesn’t mean that PB Blast is harmless, just less harmful then Kroil.

That silver antiseeze stuff in teh tube or bottle would work Made by permatex i believe is the one I use. dont like the dry stick version, hard to apply. squeeze tube is second best and the bottle with brush is the coolest. but it is all good stuff. works years and year latter, even on hot exhaust stuff be sure to use copius amounts.

PS dont eat the antiseize, it is not good for you, I dont know of a safer version.

[draganc]

"...PS dont eat the antiseize, it is not good for you, I dont know of a safer version...."

lol.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)