Brake bleeding..., sucks (pun woefully intended) Options

[stateofidleness]

at my wit's end with brake bleeding (who else says "blake breeding" on accident?... ok just me (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)) anyways...

tried the old fashioned "get a buddy" method... this helped me find all my leaks... fun.. so after replacing all the lines, the master cylinder and a rear caliper, we tried again (3 weekends into this so far... ) Builds a little pressure, go to next wheel.. try again.. no change, but good flow..

after doing all 4 corners and getting good flow with no air at each one, STILL pedal almost goes all the way to the floor with little pressure...

finally got to that point where you don't mind spending money to make the process easier, so i went to FLAPS and got the MityVac thing... $40 later i get home and go back to work... got the process down and got good flow at each tire again, reservoir staying full throughout... STILL sh*tty pedal feel... so at the time of this writing.. i quit!

[IronHillRestorations]

I too tried the MityVac, and it just doesn't work that well. Pulls air from the threads on the bleeders. Pressure on top of the brake fluid works every time for me, and makes it a one man job.

Here's how I bleed a 914 brake system, from my post back in Mar 05.

Remember the "Search" function is your friend!

Get a spare cap for the brake fluid resevior.
Get a tire valve & stem.
Drill a hole in the center of the resevior cap, the same size as the hole in a wheel (or measure the narrow part of the tire valve).
Pull the valve stem through the hole.
Remove the plastic screen in the resevior.
Fill the brake resevior completely, not to the fill line, all the way full to the bottom of the tube that holds the plastic screen.
Put on your new modified pressure bleeder cap.
Drain your air tank to 10 psi, for cheaper compressors setting the regulator at 10 psi may not work. If you put too much pressure in the system, you'll blow off the blue lines that connect the supply lines to the resevior, or worse.
Take a clip on air chuck and clip it on your new pressure bleeder cap.
Bleed the brakes, starting at the furthest bleeder from the master cyl, and finish at the bleeder nearest the master cyl.
Bleeding sequence (RR-LR-RF-LF) EDITED FROM ORIGINAL POST
Pump the pedal hard about ten times and repeat the proceedure.
Do not get brake fluid on painted surfaces it will ruin them.
If the pressure bleeder cap retains pressure, bleed it down before taking it off the resevior.
This works very well, and makes it a one person job.
Replace brake fluid every two years.
Properly discard used brake fluid.