Is this a good location for a wideband? Options

[tornik550]

I have been having issues tuning my carbs. I finally decided to by a wideband air fuel package. I have searched and found several responses. I just want to triple check before I weld the bung. Is the area that is circled a good place to put the bung. I plan on putting it on the front side so it will not be noticeable from the rear- I just didn't have a picture of that side.

[Cupomeat]

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I am very interested in your collective experience as I see VERY unusual results from my WB O2 from Innovate;
In a 1.9l L-jet motor with about 8.6 to 1 CR I get the following results from the Innovate display;
Idle - 22
Mid range (mid throttle) - 14
Full throttle - 8

Now, the car runs very well, so these reading don't make any sense?

Any clue as to what I did wrong?

My O2 sensor is mounted at the 3o'clock position so it is not optimal, but not bad.

[Mark Henry]

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I am very interested in your collective experience as I see VERY unusual results from my WB O2 from Innovate;
In a 1.9l L-jet motor with about 8.6 to 1 CR I get the following results from the Innovate display;
Idle - 22
Mid range (mid throttle) - 14
Full throttle - 8

Now, the car runs very well, so these reading don't make any sense?

Any clue as to what I did wrong?

My O2 sensor is mounted at the 3o'clock position so it is not optimal, but not bad.

You are running rich. Think about how this works.
Decelerating you have just shut off the gas so of course it is lean, you are only sucking air. No load so this is normal.
22:1 at Idle is a bit lean but it has no load so it is most likely fine.

Mid throttle will fluctuate and 14:1 may be about right. Try it again going up a slight hill for a proper reading.

Full throttle or part throttle under load, now you have a load and the reading becomes very important on our aircooled engines I aim for 12.5-13:1 they like a little rich as it helps with cooling. WC engine can run leaner and I'd aim for stoich (stoichiometric )which is 14.7:1. I love our long gradual hills as they are perfect for taking readings through the RPM range under part load. In a perfect world you should be hitting 12.5-13.5 through all RPM's going up that slight hill and when you are accelerating.

3 wire lambdas defiantly must be powered or removed. One wires don't need to be powered, but most one wire are narrow band and only read about 14:1 to 15:1 or close to stoich. Also one wires depend on the exhaust heat to work, this take more than a couple of minutes and on a new engine break-in you could damage the engine before your meter even starts working.
Using a 3 wire it doesn't care how close you are to the heads, it's measuring oxygen. On a one wire you would want it close to the head as it doesn't even begin to work till it's about 600*F. 3 wire is better on our cars for sure.
You could mount you lambda up to 8-4 o'clock, basically you don't want it sitting in a pool of water after shutdown.

I thought these things were used mainly with computer controlled fuel injection. Can they be of mucn help if you use carbs? Is it worth the expense?

Do you like pulling your plugs using the old school method to see if you're running lean?
I don't buy jets (unless I need smaller, not often), I have my meter and a set of jet reamers. I can fine tune a set of carbs in one afternoon and be done with it.