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> I'm doing it this time!, no i'm not, lets get drunk!
ripper911
post Oct 15 2010, 10:53 AM
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corde pulsum tangite
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I've been putting this off, one weekend I was sick, the next was Petit le Mans, it's time to do this!
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)

I have "new" heat exchangers, will be getting a new muffler tomorrow.

I have a heat exchanger hardware kit, should it only have 6 bolts??? I figured it would be eight. But I don't know.

About getting the exhaust off without breaking studs...
Someone suggested using a blowtorch and impact wrench, shoud they be glowing hot, or about how hot?

Everytime my car is in the shop they're drilling out exhaust studs, should that mean that they have all been fixed well enough to hold, or is it more likely that I'll be drilling them out as well?
and if so, how do I do that???
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
Please help.
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cary
post Oct 17 2010, 07:32 AM
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PB Blaster. I usually give it a couple applications.

Then try and give it about 1/8 of a turn tighter. That sometimes breaks the rust bond. But if that fails its time to get out the weapons.

I use a small MAP gas torch. Get the nut cherry red. Then slowly back it off. If it doesn't come. Start over. PB Blaster overnight. Then torch again.
A propane torch won't work. The key is getting the nut cherry red to expand it. Your expanding the nut, not burning the rust.

Patience is a virtue. And it costs less $$$$$$$$$. If the stud comes too. No big deal. That's what they make Loctite for. Out together is better that snapped off.

Then like everyone else has said. Put on new copper nuts with copper based Never Seize. Then your good to go ...............
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