Engine rebuild, a few questions Options

[stugray]

I have rebuilt a type IV a couple of times, but I was young & naive.
This will be a 2.0L with stock FI for vintage racing.

1 - How do I hook up the stock fuel pump line(s) to a fuel cell?

2 - are there any Cams other than the stock one that will give me increased performance while still using the stock FI?

3 - What compression ratio should I target? I am working that step right now - CC'ing the heads & setting the deck height.

4 - The CAM thrust bearing has just one side with the thrust plate on it. If I recall, when I upgraded my last 914, the guy at the performance shop gave me TWO with the thrust bearing on it (one for each side). Should I be looking for those?

5 - After splitting the case, there were 2 or 3 "bumps" that needed a little "flattening out" with a file. Can the case be damaged by trying to clean up the nasty spots, or is there a way for me to make sure to get it right?

I imagine that the only thing I could do would be to remove all the studs and rub each side over some sandpaper taped down to a very flat surface...

Any help is appreciated.

Stu

[stugray]

Cupomeat,

1 - Still trying to find a legal fuel cell. It needs a bladder and (I guess) three ports.

2 - I looked at the Raby website and it looks like I can only get a cam if I buy the whole $500 package. I am tempted, but if I blow that kind of dough (in addition to all the other stuff I need) right now, I wont be on the track for another year. If I just knew the lift & duration of an "improved cam", I could have one made myself locally.

3 - Based on my measurements, I am at about 8.2 right now. This motor has concave pistons. To up the CR, I would need to reduce the head volume or get domed pistons, right? How much does it cost to have the heads flycut for a lower volume combustion chamber? They read 60ccs now.

4 - I see that the aircooled technology website has the dual thrust bearings.

5 - The worst bump was on both sides and at the very top. I didnt goe nuts with the file. I just kept it perfectly flat on the case halves and took off any high spots.

Bleyseng,

Wouldnt I want a HIGHER CR being at high altitude as the air is thinner?

New questions:

6 - I dont have a flywheel for this engine, but I have two in my 1.7s. Are they identical between the 1.7 & the 2.0?

7 - the dipstick tube is broken (as usual ;-(. Can I extract it & replace it myself? I have a slide hammer. I was thinking putting a piece of all-thread thru it & putting a nut on the end & tapping it out.
If that works, where do I get a new tube?

Stu

[ArtechnikA]

1 - Still trying to find a legal fuel cell. It needs a bladder and (I guess) three ports.

There should be no mystery here. Your rulebook will tell you what is legal. Go find a distributor for ATL. Check the Porsche-oriented race places like Subtle Dynamics, Dougherty, SmartRacing. 914's have been racing for 40 years and except for the 100-liter endurance tanks, all have pretty much the same requirements and packaging.

2 - I looked at the Raby website and it looks like I can only get a cam if I buy the whole $500 package. I am tempted, but if I blow that kind of dough (in addition to all the other stuff I need) right now, I wont be on the track for another year. If I just knew the lift & duration of an "improved cam", I could have one made myself locally.

No, you couldn't. There're _way_ more to this than lift & duration, and a lot of the magick is in the ramps & rates. If you're so close to the edge that $500 is a deal-killer, you will be tempted to cut corners right & left and then wonder why it's not working out. Or, if you are scrimping on safety equipment, your heirs and assigns will be wondering.

Sorry to be harsh but save your nickels and dimes until you can afford to do it right. You don't have to spend a ton of money but if $500 is an insurmountable obstacle, you are way too close to the edge.

3 - Based on my measurements, I am at about 8.2 right now. This motor has concave pistons. To up the CR, I would need to reduce the head volume or get domed pistons, right?

These are _really_ basic questions for which answers are widely available. People here are happy to help but you must be prepared to meet them halfway by doing your homework first. Every basic racing & performance book has a chapter on how to measure and adjust CR. And the results of each thing you change.

5 - The worst bump was on both sides and at the very top. I didnt goe nuts with the file. I just kept it perfectly flat on the case halves and took off any high spots.

FILE??!? Find yourself someone with a granite surface plate who knows how to use it. Plan on needing a line bore after and maybe you won't actually need it.

Wouldnt I want a HIGHER CR being at high altitude as the air is thinner?

Where are you going to race it? Are you in a 'pump gas' (what octane?) class or can you run race gas? All else being equal, you can tolerate more CR (and more spark advance) at altitude - but you also have lots less cooling so there is no free lunch.

6 - I dont have a flywheel for this engine, but I have two in my 1.7s. Are they identical between the 1.7 & the 2.0?

Search is your friend. There are wear (machining) limits on the friction surface. You should be able to find these and know how to measure for tolerance. And what else you have to change when the surface is machined.