Mallory ignition questions, Partial success! |
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Mallory ignition questions, Partial success! |
VaccaRabite |
Oct 10 2010, 05:59 PM
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#1
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En Garde! Group: Admin Posts: 13,465 Joined: 15-December 03 From: Dallastown, PA Member No.: 1,435 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
My carbed 2056 uses a Mallory Unilite ignition. All summer long I have been fighting intermitant misses leading to the motor dieing at idle. After dicking with the carbs and adding fresh spark plugs, I am now moving to ignition.
So here is how my system is set up. Bosch blue coil. Mallory Unilite ignition. The ignition is behind a resistor block. MSD spiral wound plug wires. NKG b5es plugs pregapped (one heat range hotter then stock as suggested in the resent spark plug thread) . My tach is not dancing when I have a miss. The idle indicated drops as expected, no drama. So I don't think that the coil is grounding out or arcing. As I understand the Mallory dizzy, it either works or it does not work, and there is not a lot of in-between. My primary suspects are the plug wires. I am using the MSD spiral wound wires suggested for use with the Mallory, and I have only been using them this season. Since you are not supposed to use the regular plug wires with a Mallory (as they can somehow cause the optical unit to burn out) buying replacement wires on a hunch is kinda expensive. Am I chasing my tail with this? Also, I am using the stock gap. I think I am supposed to be able to use a wider gap with the Mallory, which will give better ignition. What kind of gap should I be shooting for? If it does turn out to be the plug wires as the problem area, should I go back to the stock heat range plugs, or stay with the hotter ranged plugs? Oh, and for the "go back to FI" crowd, my motor is using a cam that would cause D Jet to commit suicide. In this case, it is not an option. Zach |
VaccaRabite |
Oct 26 2010, 06:28 PM
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#2
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En Garde! Group: Admin Posts: 13,465 Joined: 15-December 03 From: Dallastown, PA Member No.: 1,435 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
I FINALLY fixed my static time.
I used the 16 degree key to set timing. That was kind of a chore, and I can see how the PO goofed it. Its probably easier with the dizzy out of the car, but I was being stubborn. It seems like you need two keys to do it, or one key and a lock to keep the dizzy in place while you torque down the set screws. I retimed the car and extra initial advance certainly helped, but at idle I can still hear the car missing. Cyl 1 is a metronome. It never misses. Cyl 2 had an occasional miss. 10 missfired over the course of a minute. Cyl 3 was missing often. Over my 60 second count, it missed enough that I lost count. I would guess that 1 of every 10 beats it missed. Cyl 4 was missing too. More then Cyl 2 and less then Cyl 3. I am going to try a valve adjustment maybe Friday... When in doubt, check the basics. But I don't expect to find any surprises there from when I set it in the spring. If that does not solve the issue, I am going to move to a bigger coil then the blue one. The good news if that during the 1/2 an hour or so that I was dicking with the car after setting the timing, it did not try and die once. That is an improvement. But I need to get those misfires under control. Zach |
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