Oil leak behind flywheel I can't find Options

[tracer]

Hi all, have an oil leak that I have been trying to fix for over a month and 4 main seals. Symptom is oil coming from hole between transmission and case. My first thought were that I needed to replace the main crank seal, well long story, when this thing is leaking it seems you need to to drive at freeway speed for a little while and when you stop and look under the car the entire passenger side has oil slung on the roof and all over the trans and muffler, but only on the passenger side. Today removed the transmission and the inside cavity is covered with oil, this is engine oil and not gear oil. Removed the flywheel and seal looked dry?? Have been cleaning and scanning for anyplace oil could come from. Seems like the drivers side case shell is moist with oil and passenger side is dry. This should be an easy fix but I can't think of another place to check. Could I have a micro crack and oil leaking out under pressure from an oil galley? The oil galley plug on drivers side has been epoxied in and the passenger side has been tapped and plugged. Help!!!

[tracer]

OK,

I am really bummed now. Replaced the seal with the Victor Reinz orange seal from Jake Raby Store and sucker is still leaking. I must have a hairline crack in the block/oil galley behind the flywheel I can't seem to find or see. Also this doesn't seem to fail until oil temp gets above 180 to 210.. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

[realred914]

OK,

I am really bummed now. Replaced the seal with the Victor Reinz orange seal from Jake Raby Store and sucker is still leaking. I must have a hairline crack in the block/oil galley behind the flywheel I can't seem to find or see. Also this doesn't seem to fail until oil temp gets above 180 to 210.. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

ok here is what to do to find a hairline crack in the case.

1... clean the rear of the case area real well, degrease , rinse, dry. use a brush to clean out all potential cracks.

2. put some paint thinner in a spray bottle and lightly cover the whole surface to be tested (or use a bottle and brush to spread a thin layer)

3. genlty wipe it down to dry the surface, after a short soak period.

4. immediatly after surface wipe down, blow a dust layer of FINE crushed chaulk or baby powder on the entire dried surface.

5. areas of crack that have soaked up the paint thinner will appear as a spreading wet mark in the thin dust layer. use a bright light to inspect.

I have used this technique several times to find cracks, kind of a do it your self magnetflux test.

if you have a substantial crack, this can find it. pay closest attention to areas backed by oil passages. you may want to repeat this several times with varius times between drying and powder application as this can effect resolution of the test.




other option i have used is a flouresent dye added to oil, Rich sold me a small bottle of it years ago at High Performance House 650 364-6234 just clean the area, add a ounce or so to the oil, run the car, let it cool then in a dark area shine a black light on the suspect areas and look for a green / yellow glow. of course since your leak would require running the engine and then an engine pull to inspect the suspect area, with this method, it would be a labor intesive test.




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