Clutch Tube Repair-Meatball style, Daily driver needs a CT fix w/o welding |
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Clutch Tube Repair-Meatball style, Daily driver needs a CT fix w/o welding |
wgwhitney2 |
Dec 28 2010, 11:19 AM
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#1
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What the What? Group: Members Posts: 35 Joined: 8-November 09 From: Rocklin, CA, Northern California Member No.: 11,020 Region Association: Northern California |
Help!
I had thought the clutch cable had gone when the pedal went to the floor board, but nooooo. Upon inspection, the weld on the rear of the clutch tube has let go! This is on my 1973 1.7L with 252,000 miles on her. I have read the two articles in the Lapuwali classic thread, and those levels of repair are just too involved for me at this time. Anyone have a successful recipe to get the system working smoothly, if not correctly repaired? The car is in what I call a "ready to be restored" state. I have to drive it now as transport, so taking it off the road for an extended time is not an option. Removing gas tanks, dropping engines, blowing out fuel lines...nope. I think the front and middle welds may be ok. The whole tube now flexes (rather than free floats) when I put the clutch pedal in, rubbing up against the shifter linkage. What is this "u-bolt" repair method mentioned in the Classics thread? What type of u-bolt, and where and how are they installed? Would rigging up some fender washer+spacer tube+JBweld monstrosity to take the pressure off the rear tube work? I'm thinking transferring the pressure onto the firewall, and totally off the tube body like it is now. So, hold your nose and suggest an ugly, but effective, fix I can do on my back, on the garage floor, in the cold, with oil and grease everywhere. I promise I will fix it right when I restore my baby to show room glory some of these days. Bill |
sean_v8_914 |
Jan 1 2011, 11:07 AM
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#2
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Chingon 601 Group: Members Posts: 4,011 Joined: 1-February 05 From: San Diego Member No.: 3,541 |
I must agree w Eric. often times labor costs are increased as a result of a previous bandaid. you pay me to weld it but now I have to spend time grinding off all the JB. I must fix the hacked up metal where the U clamp was and I have to fix a dicked up clutch tube. then I have to pull out the fire wall where it too colapsed as a result of some patch that was pushing on all the cracks.....now the throttle cable exit is also in need of attention at the fire wall...that is alot of additional labor cost. that is more added cost than the original correct fix solution
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