Clutch Tube Repair-Meatball style, Daily driver needs a CT fix w/o welding |
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Clutch Tube Repair-Meatball style, Daily driver needs a CT fix w/o welding |
wgwhitney2 |
Dec 28 2010, 11:19 AM
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#1
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What the What? Group: Members Posts: 35 Joined: 8-November 09 From: Rocklin, CA, Northern California Member No.: 11,020 Region Association: Northern California |
Help!
I had thought the clutch cable had gone when the pedal went to the floor board, but nooooo. Upon inspection, the weld on the rear of the clutch tube has let go! This is on my 1973 1.7L with 252,000 miles on her. I have read the two articles in the Lapuwali classic thread, and those levels of repair are just too involved for me at this time. Anyone have a successful recipe to get the system working smoothly, if not correctly repaired? The car is in what I call a "ready to be restored" state. I have to drive it now as transport, so taking it off the road for an extended time is not an option. Removing gas tanks, dropping engines, blowing out fuel lines...nope. I think the front and middle welds may be ok. The whole tube now flexes (rather than free floats) when I put the clutch pedal in, rubbing up against the shifter linkage. What is this "u-bolt" repair method mentioned in the Classics thread? What type of u-bolt, and where and how are they installed? Would rigging up some fender washer+spacer tube+JBweld monstrosity to take the pressure off the rear tube work? I'm thinking transferring the pressure onto the firewall, and totally off the tube body like it is now. So, hold your nose and suggest an ugly, but effective, fix I can do on my back, on the garage floor, in the cold, with oil and grease everywhere. I promise I will fix it right when I restore my baby to show room glory some of these days. Bill |
McMark |
Jan 1 2011, 01:30 PM
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#2
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914 Freak! Group: Retired Admin Posts: 20,179 Joined: 13-March 03 From: Grand Rapids, MI Member No.: 419 Region Association: None |
Whoa, I just opened this thread (once I got Bill's email). I hadn't opened this thread because the title sounded like pictures of someone's home-brew repair and I wasn't interested in seeing another round of those.
But here's my take on this repair. Restoring it back to factory original, would involve: 1. removing the clutch tube entirely (I agree with Andy that it's probably broken at the front) and drain the fuel from the system 2. removing the brazing material 3. fixing the base metal 4. reinstalling the tube and brazing it into place But I realize that's a lot of work and would run somewhere in the $400-$500 range. So the only suitable 'cheap' repair, IMHO, is to use the large washer technique. It's a bit dangerous because the fuel lines are right there. But it's a solid repair, it's relatively unobtrusive, and it should last 'forever'. Something like that is around 1.5 hours and in the $100 neighborhood. As I mentioned, I agree with SirAndy that your front is probably snapped as well and needs to be repaired. Here is an example of the absolute WORST way to repair it: QUOTE It is necessary to reweld by cutting a door in front of the shifter and placing the tube in the proper position before rewelding I use a more refined technique, posted by Jeff Bowlsby above. But carefully drilling holes in the side of the center tunnel you can reweld the tube extremely effectively without cutting a big-ass 'door'. It's faster, cleaner, and just plain smarter. This repair is only about 30 minutes (unless you have a center console in place). All told, something like this is around $150 -$200 to repair assuming there are no big surprises along the way. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) |
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