Clutch arm play Options

[geniusanthony]

While my engine was out for clean up, I decided to take action on the clutch components that I knew were due or questionable. I have recently (in the past year) done the clutch cable and even when it was new I still had the adjuster turned nearly all the way in.

Yesterday I replaced the Clutch cable arm bushing, 901-423-343-00, the old one was nearly worn through.
When I reinstall I am using a new Clutch cable end 911-423-205-03, this is the upgraded metal one instead of plastic. The friction disk is new but not noticeably thicker than the old one. There was probably an eighth of an inch on either side of the rivets.

With the trans installed onto the engine If I pull back on the clutch arm it is nearly even with the end of the bottom stud coming off the back of the case, so there is still a half inch maybe of travel before you feel the pressure plate.
So the question is does that sound about right or should I do something else while I am in there.

[r_towle]

Measure your flywheel to see if it has been ground.
If it has, you need to remove the clutch fork, replace the bushing in the back, remove the ball and add the same amount of washers under that ball to make up the difference that your flywheel was cut.

I hope that makes sense...the relationship between that clutch fork and the face of the flywheel need to remain the same for the whole system to function.

The specs for the flywheel are here in an old thread by Dave Dyer...or they will be on Pelican, or in the manual.

Rich