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r_towle |
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Custom Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 24,705 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States ![]() ![]() |
In an effort to learn how the more experienced and professional welders handle this, I have a question.
I will be adding 1/8 inch steel to a 356 chassis. This will be a structural element and will be under some stress. It is part of the rear suspension. What is the best welding technique to use to weld 1/8 inch steel angle iron to a standard 19 gauge 50 year old chassis and ensure that the welds hold...they do what they are supposed to and I dont spend the entire time blowing through the 19 gauge steel? I will be getting the piece of steel from a steel yard, basically a 4 inch by 4 inch angle iron piece welded along the ends, and along the length as needed. I have a mig welder and a oxy/ace torch. I dont have a tig, and I wont outsource this...so I am looking for techniques to use what I have. Rich |
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sww914 |
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,439 Joined: 4-June 06 Member No.: 6,146 Region Association: None ![]() |
Rick, I think he's building an outlaw 356 with 911 suspension. Not sure yet, he doesn't want to be treated like an ugly stepchild so he won't talk too much. Some weird welding will be necessary.
When I weld thick to thin, for roll cage bases for instance, I chamfer the edge of the thick metal at 45 degrees and spend about 75% of the time, maybe more, with the arc on the thick metal. I'm talking about mig of course. I start on the thick, keep my puddle on there through most of my back & forth and just give a little dip at the end out onto the thin stuff. Get everything as clean and rust free as possible. Get some extra metal so you can practice on the bench and set your welder before you start blowing holes in the car. Of course I've never blown holes in sheet metal when welding but I've heard about it. Nope, not me... |
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