Official Sasquatch build thread Part 1, Cosmo Rotary Turbo... Then boom... Options

[Mike Bellis]

Many of you know my car. It was Steve Malmz's car he found in a yard as a roller. It was a former SCCA club racer. Malmz named the car Sasquach. Malmz put a V8 in it and drove it until his priorities changed. It was sold to a guy in Kentucky (unknown name), he regeared the transaxle and drove it little. He sold it to a PCA member in Irvine, CA. That guy used it as a DE car until I purchased it. I installed an EFI system and drove the crap out of it. Recently my clutch went out and I decided it was time for a change. The V8 is going to another member. My engine choice is Top Secret, under wraps until I make my final choices. a Turbo Rotary. I'm taking a twin turbo and converting it to a single large turbo. This mod keeps it simple and increases horsepower. My new license plate will be "914 TT".

The car has 930 suspension and brakes. 930 steel flairs grafted on, a total of 8 flairs were used. Two per corner to make up the radius. There is a roll cage with removable door bars. The cage is tied to the rear suspension but not the front. The bodywork ant paint are 10+ years old and the car is several shades of white. The chassis is super solid. Only minor surface rust has been found. The Original owner/racer installer a stiffening kit and various braces. The suspension console is unusual. Steel plats replace the inboard pivots. 1/8" & 1/4" plate steel reenforcement plates are surrounding the console. A 1" bar ties in the console to the firewall.



Here are the first pics of me stripping paint from the engine bay and the unusual consoles.

[thenewwazoo]

Just found your build - it looks nice! A few thoughts from someone who knows a little about rotaries...

2000cc primaries are HUGE. You may well find that you have trouble making it idle with primaries that big - that's why Mazda and most aftermarket setups use smaller primaries, and large secondaries. The bigger the "jump", the harder it is to tune the transition, but the better your idle will be. I used to run 1600cc secondaries for my big-turbo setups. You do need big secondaries for big power, tho - the BSFC of rotaries is pretty high, even compared to turbo boingers.

The GT35R is a good turbo, though I agree you'll be understressing it. Some would say not using it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) It's certainly a better choice than trying to use the 13B-RE's stock twin setup. It's complex and flaky at best, though the 13B-REW's setup is even worse. If you decide to go full-on crazy, a not-too-uncommon setup is with parallel twins, using one per exhaust port. What's your turbo's hotside A/R?

You haven't mentioned it yet, so in case you don't know it, you'll need to either use a pre-89 metering oil pump setup (and, iirc, the pre-88 13B front cover), or premix your fuel like a 2-stroke.

[Mike Bellis]

Just found your build - it looks nice! A few thoughts from someone who knows a little about rotaries...

2000cc primaries are HUGE. You may well find that you have trouble making it idle with primaries that big - that's why Mazda and most aftermarket setups use smaller primaries, and large secondaries. The bigger the "jump", the harder it is to tune the transition, but the better your idle will be. I used to run 1600cc secondaries for my big-turbo setups. You do need big secondaries for big power, tho - the BSFC of rotaries is pretty high, even compared to turbo boingers.

The GT35R is a good turbo, though I agree you'll be understressing it. Some would say not using it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) It's certainly a better choice than trying to use the 13B-RE's stock twin setup. It's complex and flaky at best, though the 13B-REW's setup is even worse. If you decide to go full-on crazy, a not-too-uncommon setup is with parallel twins, using one per exhaust port. What's your turbo's hotside A/R?

You haven't mentioned it yet, so in case you don't know it, you'll need to either use a pre-89 metering oil pump setup (and, iirc, the pre-88 13B front cover), or premix your fuel like a 2-stroke.

I was thinking about down sizing the injectors too. They will be a little hard to control in low rpm. I will most likely go with 800/1600 since I can hit my HP goal just fine.

My hotside A/R is .82 so it should spool quickly. I looked at doing dual turbos but asside from the "BLING" factor, I couldn't see the need for the complexity. The cheapest dual turbo manifold I found was around $800. I'm using the KISS method and staying with a single turbo.

As for the OMP. I ordered an electronic OMP controller from www.eomp.info A guy name Jason builds them to control the OMP's stepper motor. I am also using a Rotary Aviation OMP bypass to run 2-stroke oil from a seporate tank. I will however pre mix during EFI tuning just to be safe. I do have an 89 OMP and front cover just in case my plans fail.

[Rotary'14]

Just found your build - it looks nice! A few thoughts from someone who knows a little about rotaries...

2000cc primaries are HUGE. You may well find that you have trouble making it idle with primaries that big - that's why Mazda and most aftermarket setups use smaller primaries, and large secondaries. The bigger the "jump", the harder it is to tune the transition, but the better your idle will be. I used to run 1600cc secondaries for my big-turbo setups. You do need big secondaries for big power, tho - the BSFC of rotaries is pretty high, even compared to turbo boingers.

The GT35R is a good turbo, though I agree you'll be understressing it. Some would say not using it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) It's certainly a better choice than trying to use the 13B-RE's stock twin setup. It's complex and flaky at best, though the 13B-REW's setup is even worse. If you decide to go full-on crazy, a not-too-uncommon setup is with parallel twins, using one per exhaust port. What's your turbo's hotside A/R?

You haven't mentioned it yet, so in case you don't know it, you'll need to either use a pre-89 metering oil pump setup (and, iirc, the pre-88 13B front cover), or premix your fuel like a 2-stroke.

I was thinking about down sizing the injectors too. They will be a little hard to control in low rpm. I will most likely go with 800/1600 since I can hit my HP goal just fine.

My hotside A/R is .82 so it should spool quickly. I looked at doing dual turbos but asside from the "BLING" factor, I couldn't see the need for the complexity. The cheapest dual turbo manifold I found was around $800. I'm using the KISS method and staying with a single turbo.

As for the OMP. I ordered an electronic OMP controller from www.eomp.info A guy name Jason builds them to control the OMP's stepper motor. I am also using a Rotary Aviation OMP bypass to run 2-stroke oil from a seporate tank. I will however pre mix during EFI tuning just to be safe. I do have an 89 OMP and front cover just in case my plans fail.

That electronic OMP controller is so COOL! I haven't been keeping up on the latest and greatest stuff. Those Aussies sure love their rotaries. I can see you like them too. Keep the pics coming so I can get fired up on my rebuild.

-Robert