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machina |
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Benefactors Posts: 2,030 Joined: 21-June 03 From: Miami Beach, FL Member No.: 848 ![]() ![]() |
Just separated the fan wheel from the big steel pulley ring. FYI, it takes the same 8mm 12pt bit that the CV uses. They were harder to get out than the CV bolts.
Anyway, I don't think I have a saw or airtool that will get in-between those blades. There is only like 6mm in between. Any suggestions? TIA dr |
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ArtechnikA |
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rich herzog ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 7,390 Joined: 4-April 03 From: Salted Roads, PA Member No.: 513 Region Association: None ![]() |
QUOTE(tat2dphreak @ Apr 7 2004, 07:02 AM) this will make the engine run hotter too correct? not necessarily... there are many who feel the OEM fan is -too- efficient for high speed operation, and actually tries to pump more air than can be pushed through the available openings. it's not efficient to compress air wit this kind of fan. so the racers remove 'some' blades to balance the air delivery with what can be squoze out. so it doesn't cool any worse at the high speeds that race-track cars operate at, but it does consume way less power. they do tend to run hotter at idle. in general (broadstrokes generality warning) aircooled engines are overcooled at idle so they'll be at proper operating temp at cruise. watercooled engines are undercooled at idle which is why they used to have so many overheating in traffic problems - before the widespread adaptation of the thermostatically switched electric fan. pretty much for the same reasons - it takes a lot of power to turn the fan... |
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