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> To cam or not to cam.., What are the specifics?
moparrob
post Apr 26 2011, 07:30 PM
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My engine is a stock (big port) '78 SC 3.0 from which I have removed the CIS injection. I have purchased some Weber 40's with 36mm venturis and manifolds that have been ported to match. I'll also be running some 1 5/8 headers (I know, they may be a tad big...)

I have been getting a lot of flack from a buddy for not re-camming the engine while it is a long block and out of the car. He claims I am leaving around 30 hp on the table by not stepping up now and doing it.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i954.photobucket.com-11663-1303867828.1.jpg)

The car, at this point, will be strictly street driven but I would like to maximize torque and street/canyon potential. I have never driven a 914-6 before, so I really don't know what to expect if I don't cam it.

So two questions arise. Which would be a good cam grind and how much should I expect it to cost?

I see Porsche has some stock grinds, and others (like Elgin) grind cams to various specs. What would be a preferable cam design for this setup?

What are parts costs alone?

If I brought my long block to a reputable shop what could I expect to pay for labor and ancillaries like cam chains, gaskets, etc? A ballpark figure would be OK at this point.

Has anyone here done this specific upgrade from an early 3.0 with CIS to Webers, either with or w/o cams?

All feedback is appreciated.

Thanks.
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J P Stein
post Apr 26 2011, 08:18 PM
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The short version is cam swaps can allow the cylinders to scavenge well.
Proper scavenging increases the intake charge speed & volume thus giving more HP/Torque in the higher (say from 3.5K upwards) rev range. The scavenging is accomplished by longer duration/more overlap on the cam grind. Your 172hp 3.0L (with the right cam selection) could jump to an easy 230/240 hp with no loss of drivability.

This comes a a price....what doesn't. You can't get enough overlap/duration with the stock CIS pistons. JE (or some such) pistons don't work in Alusail cylinders...Nikisal is what you need.

Easy for your buddies to talk, expensive for you.

Here's a pic of the PCs of my last 2.7L rebuild. Bout 205HP at the wheels and equal torque.


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