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yeahmag |
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#1
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,448 Joined: 18-April 05 From: Pasadena, CA Member No.: 3,946 Region Association: Southern California ![]() ![]() |
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yeahmag |
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#2
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,448 Joined: 18-April 05 From: Pasadena, CA Member No.: 3,946 Region Association: Southern California ![]() ![]() |
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Krank |
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#3
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 140 Joined: 11-October 09 From: Winnipeg, MB Member No.: 10,922 Region Association: Canada ![]() |
The bars are *exactly* the same length and indexed *exactly* the same. So all I should need to do is measure off the front and rear (L & R) and I will have a parallelogram very quickly. ![]() I was never a huge fan or "string" alignments that I used to do in the 70s and I am still not a fan of them. Too many discrepancies. Wheel track must be 100% the same between front and rear axles to get an accurate toe in measurement/setting. If you were to start with a true toe in setting of 1/8" and then widen the front axle wheel track by 1.00" your string method of measurement now reads a different toe reading. This is just to show the change in toe that is possible. Don't get me wrong, this method may get you close but using jack stands as string anchors would probably work just as well. Seeing as you are measuring the distance from the string to the tire 9 0'clock, axle center, and 3 o'clock positions to obtain a parallel line on each side of the car and give you an idea of toe in/out. If all you wish to accomplish is proper toe setting, a "toe bar" scribe method would be more accurate. To be honest, I have never looked up the wheel track or steer axle set back specs of a 914 and it may be exactly the same and work fine but just so you are aware that there are many vehicle that are not the same. |
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