HELP! 72 914 1.7 not starting |
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HELP! 72 914 1.7 not starting |
914_classic |
May 17 2011, 07:52 PM
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#1
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 12 Joined: 2-April 11 From: West Michigan Member No.: 12,887 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Got it out a few weeks ago and it wont start. It will start when you fog the intake with starting fluid. Im going to start testing fuel pressure. first after the pump, then after the filter, then after the regulator. I don't have a noid light to check the injector signal, but they are grounded.
any ideas?... thanks! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) |
914_classic |
Jun 6 2011, 05:04 PM
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#2
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 12 Joined: 2-April 11 From: West Michigan Member No.: 12,887 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
The car will only produce spark OR fuel. not both at the same time. I removed cleaned and reinstalled the distributer per manual instructions. The fuel pump will run when contact is broken inside the distributor (at the ign points). could the grounds be bad and its all trying to ground through the distributor making it do all these strange things? It has become so erratic and bizzare Im ready to just bring it to a 914 specialist but there arent any in west michigan... HELP!
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Prospectfarms |
Jun 7 2011, 09:25 PM
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#3
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Member Group: Members Posts: 495 Joined: 7-March 11 From: Louisville, KY Member No.: 12,801 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
The car will only produce spark OR fuel. not both at the same time. I removed cleaned and reinstalled the distributer per manual instructions. The fuel pump will run when contact is broken inside the distributor (at the ign points). could the grounds be bad and its all trying to ground through the distributor making it do all these strange things? It has become so erratic and bizzare Im ready to just bring it to a 914 specialist but there arent any in west michigan... HELP! You've indicated that your FP runs constantly with key "on" (bad) but that it ran when the ignition points made contact. That sounds contradictory but maybe I misunderstood you. two weeks ago my car had symptoms that sound similar to yours. Here's my story. I recently had to diagnose an ignition problem in my 72 1.7. It was an erratic loss of spark. Sometimes I got it at a plug, sometimes no. Thought maybe I'd missed the dwell, but also worried about the dizzy itself. As I gapped the points, I sometimes left the ignition on to see if the points would spark. I noticed then that as the rotor turned a full cycle the fuel pump would kick on for a second. To the best of my knowledge it that's O.K. So it turned out that the tiny woven copper wire ground strap connecting the distributor advance plates was broken. It flopped around inside the diz and gave an intermittent ground, which resulted in an unreliable and often weak spark. Here was my simple but tedious repair: remove distributor, secure it at a working height. Remove cover, points, capacitor, rotor. Strip about three inches of #18 stranded copper wire. Twist it into a loose strand. Decide where the ends of the ground strap used to be. Clean the heck out of those spots with some abrasive and a very careful cue-tip application of acid flux. Solder it to the plates by "tinning" the ends of the wire and the spots they are to be affixed to the plates. Then solder it on. Used resin core electrical solder. Afterwards I blew everything out with air and re-lubed the moving parts. Lots "o spark now. If the pump is in fact hot wired, you ought to be able to traced the offending wire back to its illicit splice somewhere on the front lighting harness. It could be coming directly from the ignition, but the condition indicates a lazy mechanic and it would be a lot easier to bring power back to the pump from that harness than reaching through all that fresh air stuff against the front "firewall." I should say that on mine, there is a red wire that's always hot, but maybe that's not spec. There's a couple of ways to bring the correct FP power to the front trunk, but I'd let someone who's done that job explain how. Good luck. |
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