Longitudinals |
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Longitudinals |
partwerks |
Jun 14 2011, 09:40 PM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,593 Joined: 7-September 06 From: Grand Island, NE Member No.: 6,787 |
Between the two, I wonder which would be the most beneficial for stiffening, if I could just pick one? The longitudinals/frame rail channels or chassis stiffening kit?
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VaccaRabite |
Jun 15 2011, 07:11 PM
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#2
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En Garde! Group: Admin Posts: 13,464 Joined: 15-December 03 From: Dallastown, PA Member No.: 1,435 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Do you mean the clam shells VS the in the cabin stiff kit?
Not owning either of the above, the clamshells are more for rust repair then stiffening. The in the cabin kit is where its at - but you HAVE to be careful welding it in or you will twist the chassis. Zach |
sfrenck |
Jun 16 2011, 10:40 AM
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#3
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Member Group: Members Posts: 492 Joined: 28-February 10 From: Wilmington, DE Member No.: 11,411 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
...the clamshells are more for rust repair then stiffening. Zach Mike at Restoration Design actually told me that his #346 clamshell was for stiffening the chassis and not for rust repair. It slips over the stock long. His #340 and #341 were meant for the rust repair. |
r_towle |
Jun 16 2011, 11:07 AM
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#4
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,585 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States |
...the clamshells are more for rust repair then stiffening. Zach Mike at Restoration Design actually told me that his #346 clamshell was for stiffening the chassis and not for rust repair. It slips over the stock long. His #340 and #341 were meant for the rust repair. The outer longs are for stiffening and require the under lying sheet metal to be fixed and in stock shape, jack post included, to add this layer on top. The benefits are several. First, it covers the whole long and extends up the angled section in the rear to attach up to the rear suspension console. Second, it does not require you remove your interior and get all that work done. Third, you have the ability to straighten the car to some extent due to the the complex design of the stamping... While the inner long kit has merit, it only covers up to the rear firewall and that can in some instances not solve the flex problem. Look at the inner long just behind the firewall and you will see the heater tube that is cut into the long. At that point, all the load is transfered to the outer long...and its at a joint in the outer long. The overlay has no joint there so it really adds quite a bit more stiffness to the car. On the inner longs with these older cars there is a specific area that develops a crack over time that you should address. The crack is straight down from the windshield and the crack develops on the vertical face of the long starting at the bottom. This happens to be where a majority of the stress from the car resides when it starts to flex and thus the crack. Its simple enough to find it and weld it up... Rich |
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