Will not start, Valve clearance advice needed. modified 1.7 Options

[Haudiosolutions]

Confusing issue which has been compounded by frequent torential rain and being on-call with 15+ hour days. Short back ground.... Steve and I were attempting to get my valves adjusted which was cut short by heavy rain. When I attempted to start the car later, nothing would happen. The battery seems good. Lights and accessories work. The starter can be manually jumped but I can't get action from the starter by using the ignition switch. The only thing I did out of the ordinary was absent mindedly leave the key switched one click up to unlock the wheel and left it that way for a while but not so far the fuel pump was running. I don't think that would cause an issue but figued I'd throw it in there. There are also two what looks like relays of some sort which I hope someone can clue me in on. The one in the pic is the one up top and the other one not pictured but looks very similar is wired to the starter. I should also add it's a standard points setup.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions. Saturday will be the earliest I could look at it unless I can bribe Steve with cash to get on it heheh (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

[detoxcowboy]

Common and re-occuring issue of failing ignition switches due to an EMF pulse that conducts itself back to the igniton switch from starter every time the car is started eventually arcing out the ignition switch./ I have had same isuue twice aboput once a year; and when I bought my 814 it had that Bosch "hot/Hard Start Relay Ugly Relay Dangling, I ditched the realay bought new harness, starter alternator and battery and ignition switch , happened again! left me stranded at a liquor store without warning. Issue had been resolved and I have had no further issues and my car now starts better than ever.. The key is installing a dfiode rectifier that shunts the 350mv EMF pulse from getting back to your switch..



914 World Post of Solution...

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...w=&st=&

Where I learned and discovered the faulting 914 desighn issue and why I was using a new switch every year..
Bottom of Page

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/m...tarter_diag.htm

[Prospectfarms]

Common and re-occuring issue of failing ignition switches due to an EMF pulse that conducts itself back to the igniton switch from starter every time the car is started eventually arcing out the ignition switch./ I have had same isuue twice aboput once a year; and when I bought my 814 it had that Bosch "hot/Hard Start Relay Ugly Relay Dangling, I ditched the realay bought new harness, starter alternator and battery and ignition switch , happened again! left me stranded at a liquor store without warning. Issue had been resolved and I have had no further issues and my car now starts better than ever.. The key is installing a dfiode rectifier that shunts the 350mv EMF pulse from getting back to your switch..



914 World Post of Solution...

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...w=&st=&

Where I learned and discovered the faulting 914 desighn issue and why I was using a new switch every year..
Bottom of Page

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/m...tarter_diag.htm

Any electric coil produces a magnetic field when energized. Whenever a switch opens the circuit to this coil the magnetic field "collapses" producing voltage in the field as a" back-current." If the switch is unprotected, the back current tends to arc across the open terminals creating heat and corrosion and eventually burning the switch. A "snubber" diode placed across the circuit diverts the back current away from the switch protecting it.

A diode is a one-way connection (like a check-valve) With the diode placed correctly across the circuit the back-current has an alternative place to go.

The snubber should be placed as close to the coil as possible. It must be "fast" and of sufficient capacity handle the considerable current produced for a split-second by the collapsing field.

This diagram shows the basic snubber circuit. A resistor is on the positive side of the diode, but this is not usually necessary for most 12 volt circuits. Note the position of the diode, which as has been said places the banded end on the positive side. If reversed you are creating a short-circuit!
 Snubber_diagram.pdf ( 10.25k ) Number of downloads: 115

[poorsche914]

Thanks for all the suggestions.
The non-start problem was a loose wire (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)
This car has definitely had some creative wiring done to it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

So... we set the valves at .006 in and .008 exh since that seems to be what the PO had it set at. Only had to adjust a couple of them that were only slightly loose.
And then we set the timing - which was also dead on already.

Question remains... for a 1.7 that has been modified (don't know what was done. Has dual carbs and runs really strong) should the valves be set at the suggested .006 on both intake and exhaust or should the 2.0 settings be used? (like we did)

We ended up adjusting the engine bay cover and driver door for a better fit/closing.
Took it out for a drive and noticed the clutch released really close to the floor. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
Afternoon project will be replacing the clutch cable. Luckily, Derrick has one at his house. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Once it is back on the road, still need to figure out what is causing oil temps to rise at interstate speeds.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)