![]() |
|
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG.
This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way. Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners. |
|
![]() |
Prospectfarms |
![]()
Post
#1
|
Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 495 Joined: 7-March 11 From: Louisville, KY Member No.: 12,801 Region Association: Upper MidWest ![]() |
My AAR was dead. Not only that but it shorted out and ruinined my ignition harness. The hot lead coming from underneath the unit lost its insulation. The valve and the heating element were both inoperable. Here's how I fixed it.
The AAR is a can holding a spring. The spring is really a bi-metal strip curled to resemble a watch spring. It serves as a thermostat. A valve on top of the can is regulated by that spring. The valve admits "auxillary air" to the manifold. I opened the can by first cutting slots across the top of the "lip." I used a pneumatic cut-off saw. You could use anything that cuts metal. As you can see I was not very careful and it turned out alright. Opening the can separates it from the valve and exposes the spring. Tow screws are attached to the spring. The one on the side is the adjustment. It is self-explanatory given that it controls where the opening of the valve is in relation to the spring. The other screw retains the spring to the valve shaft. It provides a handy place to put a small screw driver so you can turn the valve back and forth. I loaded the valve with penetrating oil. I had to remove the spring to really work it until the valve turned smoothly. The spring comes on and off easily. There is a tiny cotter pin holding the shaft in place, but you don't have to remove it. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Excuse the duplicate photo. Next... Attached image(s) ![]() |
![]() ![]() |
Prospectfarms |
![]()
Post
#2
|
Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 495 Joined: 7-March 11 From: Louisville, KY Member No.: 12,801 Region Association: Upper MidWest ![]() |
III
I soldered another beefier resistor to insulated wires and ran these out the holes I'd drilled in the side of the can. I tested the assembly to make sure it put out heat. It did. Then a smeared a dab of RTV all over the positive terminal This fixed the resistor and insulated the hot side. An extra benefit to cutting slots in the lip of the can is they make it easy to realign the top with the bottom. A big pair of channel locks squeezes the lip back onto the cover. It's not a tight fit so two "tacks" of solder hold it. Note the acid core solder, it is essential for joining steel. That's it. it works fine. Open when cold, closed when warm. The resistor gets it warm enough to close tight in about 10 minutes. I've not tested the operating time attached to an engine at start up. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
![]() ![]() |
![]() |
Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 16th June 2024 - 03:19 AM |
All rights reserved 914World.com © since 2002 |
914World.com is the fastest growing online 914 community! We have it all, classifieds, events, forums, vendors, parts, autocross, racing, technical articles, events calendar, newsletter, restoration, gallery, archives, history and more for your Porsche 914 ... |