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Java2570 |
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#1
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 649 Joined: 7-May 11 From: Fishers, IN Member No.: 13,035 Region Association: Upper MidWest ![]() |
I'm back with more questions re: my 1974 2.0L. Since replacing my distributor contact plate (bad ground wire) I've had issues with how the car runs and idles. Currently, I've put back in the old contact plate and tried to back track through every thing I've taken
apart, etc. I have replaced the intake runner boots and gaskets also. I just replaced the AAR valve with a known good one. As of today, the car will start and seem fine for about 1-2 minutes, then it starts running rougher and dies altogether. When I attempt to restart it, it refuses to start, like it's flooded. What I at first thought was a lean mixture problem now appears to be a rich mixture issue. I forgot to mention that I've also replaced the CHT sensor with a new one from PP, it's a 012. I am only getting a reading of about 1.3K cold (sensor alone) and about 1.8K cold with the ballast resistor that came with the wiring. I know that is lower than it should be.... I haven't been able to get the car warmed up enough to check the warm temp resistance. I checked my MPS today and it seems to hold vacuum but I've not checked the unit with a meter yet. Can I do this without testing through the harness via ECU? Would a bad MPS cause a scenario such as I'm having? I have also wondered if the injector seals are leaking vacuum; I see no problem with fuel leakage anywhere. I did find a couple of bad wire connectors today so perhaps in all my messing with the dizzy, I caused an issue with a wire. Prior to all of this, the car was actually running pretty well and it didn't seem to have a major issue save for a few slight vacuum leaks with hoses. Sorry if this is long winded and perhaps hard to follow but am I missing anything that could be an issue? I really thought it was either the AAR or CHT that was causing my running problems but now I've seemed to have made it worse and it's driving me crazy!! Any other ideas? Thanks! |
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underthetire |
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#2
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914 Guru ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 5,062 Joined: 7-October 08 From: Brentwood Member No.: 9,623 Region Association: Northern California ![]() |
I don't think a 74 2.0 is supposed to have the head temp resistor. Also, what is the idle speed set to with the new aar? Should be ~1700 when cold.
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Java2570 |
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#3
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 649 Joined: 7-May 11 From: Fishers, IN Member No.: 13,035 Region Association: Upper MidWest ![]() |
I don't think a 74 2.0 is supposed to have the head temp resistor. Also, what is the idle speed set to with the new aar? Should be ~1700 when cold. Right, it's not supposed to have it but was added by a previous owner for some reason. Regardless, I'm not sure it would make a difference to the current condition. I can remove it but it will just make the resistance lower and leaner. The confusing issue continues to be that it acts like it's a too lean mixture in that I can't adjust idle or ECU but it dies out after a couple minutes like it's too rich. I'm just not sure what is happening or why....it makes no sense to me. I suppose the next step is to start at the complete beginning and go through everything starting with valve clearance, fuel, etc. As far as I know, everything was good prior to the start of my dizzy repair when I afterwards, I couldn't get the idle to adjust and if I hooked up the dizzy retard vacuum hose, the car would drastically drop in idle. Now it just seems like multiple problems that don't have any reason...it's just strange! |
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