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DuckRyder |
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Avatars Mode: OFF because of the recalcitrant few. ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Benefactors Posts: 767 Joined: 8-January 03 From: Georgia Member No.: 110 ![]() ![]() |
Going to start trying to figure out the idle speed. It idles quite high when warm and properly when cold.
Is this the type of thing that a ECU/MPS/CHT mismatch can cause? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) I'm going to start running down pblanders page and checking everything, is there anything else that comes to mind? |
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Dave_Darling |
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914 Idiot ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 15,192 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California ![]() ![]() |
The baseline settings are "whatever works". There should have been a mark in the little ring around the ECU knob, at least at one point. That was the factory setting where the knob had zero effect on the idle mixture. It's a decent place to start your adjustments from.
To me, sounds like you have a failed AAR. Pull the hose from the air cleaner to the AAR when the engine is idling cold. Does air get sucked in? That's good. Plug it back in, drive for 5-10 minutes. Now pull the hose again. Does air get sucked in? That's bad... You can take them apart and repair them, but you should make certain that it's the AAR itself that is bad. Is it plugged in at the bottom, and does that get +12V when the fuel pump is running? Is the housing of the AAR grounded? If so, and the AAR doesn't close, then it's dead. If you make that determination, I or someone else can post about repairing the thing. --DD |
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