1973 1.7 D-jet, runs fine cold dies at all stops warm |
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1973 1.7 D-jet, runs fine cold dies at all stops warm |
Hammer920 |
Apr 27 2004, 10:03 AM
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#1
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It's a Learning Experience Group: Members Posts: 83 Joined: 27-April 04 From: Levelland, TX Member No.: 1,989 |
I am a new member and have been working on this over 1 yr. This is what i have replaced so far, new points and plugs, put back on vac advance on distributor new fuel pump and filter all new fuel lines and vacume lines no leaks, #2 sensor by # 3 cylender, new oil sensor by distributor. timed at 3500 rpm white mark is +5 degrees off cold or hot.
When the engine is cold will run fine after 30 min driveing when you stop for any reason it dies have to give it a little gas to start back up. with new oil sensor oil light lites up at 1200 rpm then goes away ay higher rpm oil is full. 04/25/04 can adjust the mixture at the throttle valve but the ecu wuold not adjust took the ecu apart the pointometer adjuster was broke inside Will replace the ecu it does smell like burnt electrical. the only thing injection wise that has not been replaced is the trigger points, ECU, pressure regulator and the Pnuematic decelleration valve, you can remove the vac hose on the dec valve when warm and the car will stay running. Any Suggestions (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif) |
Demick |
Apr 27 2004, 11:17 AM
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#2
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Ernie made me do it! Group: Benefactors Posts: 2,312 Joined: 6-February 03 From: Pleasanton, CA Member No.: 257 |
Off hand, it simply seems like your idle speed is adjusted too low. When the car is cold, the aux air regulartor compensates for this, but once the AAR closes, your idle speed drops too low and the car dies at idle. Your AAR heating element is probably not working as well because it should be closed within about 5 minutes. If it takes much longer than that, then the heating element is not working (or it is not connected to a power source). The AAR will still close, but it takes much longer because it muct heat up by conduction from the engine itself.
By disconnecting the vacuum hose to the decel valve, you are really just creating a big vacuum leak, which is the same as opening the throttle, which is the same as opening the idle speed bleed screw). That's what makes me think that you just need to adjust the idle speed to be higher when the car is warmed up. The broken pot in the ECU might also be somewhat to blame since that adjustment controls the mixture at idle. I would replace that. Demick |
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