Cylinder Head Temp Gauge, 20 min. Cam Break-In Options

[d7n7master]

Hi All,
Assuming the rebuilt engine starts & RUNS for the 20 min. required to break-in the cam & lifters... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) what cyl. head temp should I expect to see???
I'll be watching for oil pressure/temp/leaks/UhhhOhhhzzz
And if it leaks or murphy shows up and I have to shut it off before the "magic" 20 min. mark: does that mean that the cam & lifters are now toast???
Are there any secrets as to "what" oil I use for first crank? I've always been a Castrol 20w50 kinda guy. So. Cal. driving. A friend recently suggested adding a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil into break-in oil. Stopped me cold. Hadn't heard of that in many years. My dad put that stuff in everything!!! Engines, gas tanks, lawn mowers, parts cleaner... but I always thought it was snake oil. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)
Thanks, Gary

[Mark Henry]

I don't have time to do the pull the rockers bit, on a T1 with full flow and a sump you have to prime the system.

Pre-fill the oil filter full of oil. I use a lighter weight for break in. Start her up and as soon as the oil light (or gauge) goes off zip it up to 3000+rpm and hold it there. Have someone work the throttle so that you can watch for leaks and bad noises. Run it at least 20 min. and don't stop for minor oil leaks. After cooling over-night do a valve adjustment.

I've only heard of Marvel Mystery Oil in the last couple of years, I don't think we can even get it Canada. I'm a real sceptic when in comes to additives.

I see no benefit to an electric motor driving the engine. And you will need a big motor to get rpms up anywhere near what you need.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Unless you have a big ass motor kicking around I bet you can't even get it to spin. Not 3000rpm for sure.