Timing Question, Got the dizzy out - crisis averted Options

[bigkensteele]

Question: I can only see the timing mark on the impeller when the rotor is in the 2 and 4 position. When I had the engine on a stand, I could see it at 1. What gives?

Lead-up story: As some of you may have read, I finally got my car running on Sunday after a total reseal project. It is a 1.8 with L jet, and I installed a pertronix while the motor was out. I also replaced the dizzy O ring, but I never loosened the timing plate.

I was able to get it started on Sunday, and it ran pretty rough for a while and finally warmed up to a point where it was running OK at best.

Knowing that the timing was only in the ballpark, last night, I had the brilliant idea of loosening the plate and do a little tweaking. I went a bit to far and it died. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif) So I moved it back to the approximate starting position, and it would not start.

That is when I decided to do it the right way, but I now my timing mark doesn't show when the rotor is on 1. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ar15.gif)

[Gint]

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If there is no downward pressure on the dizzy and you turn the rotor (loosen the clamp and pull the dizzy up a millimeter or two), if the teeth aren't engaged on the drive gear, you'll know it right away because it will turn. If the teeth are engaged, the rotor won't turn. And if the teeth are riding up on top of the drive gear, turning the rotor should enable you to re-engage them.

If it still won't start, go back to #1 TDC and start over.

[bigkensteele]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

If there is no downward pressure on the dizzy and you turn the rotor (loosen the clamp and pull the dizzy up a millimeter or two), if the teeth aren't engaged on the drive gear, you'll know it right away because it will turn. If the teeth are engaged, the rotor won't turn. And if the teeth are riding up on top of the drive gear, turning the rotor should enable you to re-engage them.

If it still won't start, go back to #1 TDC and start over.

I followed Gint's advice and pulled the dizzy out a hair, and sure enough, the rotor turned freely.

I tried to re-index it back to TDC/rotor at the 1 position and push it back down. I could never get it to mate, so I decided to just pull the whole dizzy and take a look. Mind you, I have a new O ring on, so it is pretty tight. I got it out to the point where I can see the O ring, but it will NOT come out any further. Feels like the bottom of the drive is interfering with the case.

I just have this feeling that this is one of those "OH FUCH" moments. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

[TheCabinetmaker]

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If there is no downward pressure on the dizzy and you turn the rotor (loosen the clamp and pull the dizzy up a millimeter or two), if the teeth aren't engaged on the drive gear, you'll know it right away because it will turn. Of the teeth are engaged, the rotor won't turn. And if the teeth are riding up on top of the drive gear, turning the rotor should enable you to re-engage them.

Ig it still won't start, go back to #1 TDC and start over.

I followed Gint's advice and pulled the dizzy out a hair, and sure enough, the rotor turned freely.

I tried to re-index it back to TDC/rotor at the 1 position and push it back down. I could never get it to mate, so I decided to just pull the whole dizzy and take a look. Mind you, I have a new O ring on, so it is pretty tight. I got it out to the point where I can see the O ring, but it will NOT come out any further. Feels like the bottom of the drive is interfering with the case.

I just have this feeling that this is one of those "OH FUCH" moments. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

The hole in the case is smooth and straight. If the diz pulled up past the ring it should pull out. Get the diz out and set it aside. Use a magnet to pull the drive gear. Set the engine to tdc #1. Using the magnet, place the drive gear back in with it oriented like in the haynes manual. If it doesnt want to go all the way down, place the car in 5th gear and gently rock the car till it drops in place. You can use the magnet to move the gear back and fourth. Make sure the washer is on the bottom of the drive gear. Use a little thick grease to hold it in place. Dont let it fall in the block. You can get it running like valy said, but you won't have the full range of motion. Hope this helps.

Btw, your timing will not change when the engine warms up.

[Valy]

Btw, your timing will not change when the engine warms up.

That's correct but, the engine speed changes when it warms-up. Since the timing is checked at certain RPM, it should be checked on a warm engine, especially at idle.

[bigkensteele]

Btw, your timing will not change when the engine warms up.

That's correct but, the engine speed changes when it warms-up. Since the timing is checked at certain RPM, it should be checked on a warm engine, especially at idle.

I will time it cold to get it running well and then again when it warms up.

I got the dizzy out, by the way. The plate was hanging up on the tin, but it felt like the drive was hanging up in the shaft. I was very much relieved to see no brass shavings and the drive was indexed right where it is supposed to be. Now, I just need to pop the valve cover to make sure it is tdc for 1, rather than 2. Is there a better way to tell that doesn't involve spilling oil all over my heat exchanger?