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Black22 |
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 886 Joined: 1-November 07 From: Creswell, OR Member No.: 8,290 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() |
I heard people here say that boring out your 94mm cylinders is probably a better bet than buying new, possibly sub-par due to metals used, cylinders. What about the 93mm cylinders? Would the cylinder walls be too thin? Am I wrong in assuming all cylinders are cast the same thickness and then bored out to specific sizes before distribution?
I have a 1.8 that I'm taking to a 1911. I was going to wait until the motor gave out. Well it still runs strong and is very peppy, but I just spun a rod bearing and she's knocking pretty bad after a decent drive. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif) Already have a new crank ands pistons, just need to know if I have the Mahle 93mm stock cylinders, should I bore them out or buy new 96mm AA cylinders? |
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Jake Raby |
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Engine Surgeon ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 9,398 Joined: 31-August 03 From: Lost Member No.: 1,095 Region Association: South East States ![]() |
Boring cylinders requires a torque plate to mimic the loads that the cylinder is under with a head bolted on and torqued up.. You must also know the exact roughness average and plateau finish that the rings are designed to work with. Skirt clearance is also critical to proper (quiet) operation and break in.
Don't think that you can achieve satisfactory results working with someone that has never bored these cylinders before- not happening. This post has been edited by Jake Raby: Dec 13 2011, 09:10 PM |
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