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Harpo |
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,304 Joined: 21-August 11 From: Motor City aka Detroit Member No.: 13,469 Region Association: None ![]() |
I would like to rent a DIY alignment tool. I have seen them for sale for $200 - $250 But because I don't anticipate ever doing this again it would be too expensive for a one time use. Does anyone have one and is willing to work out some arrangement?
Thanks David |
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TheCabinetmaker |
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#2
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I drive my car everyday ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 8,336 Joined: 8-May 03 From: Tulsa, Ok. Member No.: 666 ![]() |
I have a question about this method of setting up the strings. If you use the centerline of the wheel hub as a gauge to set the strings from, and assuming your are using the same measurement front to rear, I'm seeing the two strings as not parallel. First, the front track is over 2" (40mm) less than the rear. This is not parallel, and even if you adjusted the dimension in the rear, it would seem that the rear hub will not remain in the same spot as you try to set the toe. The pivot point is at the front inside of the trailing arm. It seems the track would change as you changed the toe. Having the strings perfectly parallel is the key to a successful alingment. In this scenario, it also seem that the toe on the front would be incorrectly set also because of the misplaced string.
I think the strings need to be set from the center of the car, but just how do you determine the exact center? If my thinking is off base, please feel free to explain it to me. BTW, I was a factory trained chrysler front end specialist in the 70's , also worked in a few dealerships, so I do have some alignment theory. |
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