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aharder |
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,757 Joined: 6-September 11 From: Dallas Texas Member No.: 13,524 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() ![]() |
I recently saw some exhaust studs that were M10 on one end and M8 on the other.
Does anyone know where I get get these? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) I pulled one of mine out while tightening the nut (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hissyfit.gif) and I want to replace all of mine with these. Mine are M8 all the way. |
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HAM Inc |
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#2
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 850 Joined: 24-July 06 From: Watkinsville,GA Member No.: 6,499 Region Association: None ![]() |
QUOTE Or on a 2.0 head you can drill right into the combustion chamber. It can happen with any T4 head. I have seen it soooo many times. The row of studs that is closest to the crank (inner row) run right under the combustion chambers. Countless times I've had heads land in my shop where this repair went really bad. Not only have I seen them drill into the chambers, but I've seen them drill into the cylinder, and sometimes the piston too. This usually happens when drilling a busted stud and the drill rides off into the head. The row of studs away from the crank (outer row) bottom very close to the ex. valve guides. I have seen lots of heads that were drilled right through the guide and the driller didn't stop til they ran into the valve! Not to make a sales pitch, but this is why every pair of T4 heads I remanufacture gets new ex studs and if the bosses have flaky threads or any sort of insert I mill it out and weld in a new one, then remachine for a M8 stud, no inserts. The new studs are installed with a high quality Copper based anti-seize so if they ever do back out they won't pull threads. The ex studs on these heads can be a real killer! |
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