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dadaDaveed |
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#1
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 111 Joined: 19-February 09 From: San Antonio, TX Member No.: 10,071 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() |
Before I decided to convert to an LS1, I was planning to use:
stock 914 torsion bars 100 lb. rear springs stock sway bars Bilsteins all around. The car is steel flared and will have a proper 5-bolt conversion running 16x8 up front and either 16x8 or 16x9 in the back. This will be a street-only car. Should I put stiffer springs in the back? If so, how much stiffer? |
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john rogers |
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#2
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,525 Joined: 4-March 03 From: Chula Vista CA Member No.: 391 ![]() |
The method we used on my race car might also work here but unfortunately requires the possibility of more than one spring set. The way we did it was to take the car onto a race track and go through a tight left and tight right corner to see if the inside front wheel lifted and then add spring pressure to force it down so all 4 are on the ground. We ended up with 300# rear springs. For the front we used the 135 MPH to 40 MPH VERY hard braking test such as getting set up for the left turn #3 at CA speedway and went up in front T-bars until the rear wheels did not hop. The stiffer front helps keep the nose dive out of the car's handling but make sure the front and rear brakes are sharing the load equally so one or the other is not locking up. We ended up with 23mm bars I think.
The post about increasing both ends is very true as the car is pretty well balanced and you want to keep it that way. |
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