Installing flares, how good is good, how would Scott B do it? Options

[ruby914]

I am now installing my flares and hoped to use very little body filler.
I located the flares, sheet metal screwed, marked off with a sharpie, started the cut with a cutoff wheel, finished with a body saw keeping tabs at the screws, removed paint on both sides, tacked between the tabs and tacked until I could cut off the tabs with a good fit. I continued to tack until about every 3/4". Never ran a weld over 1/2" at a time. I tried to move my welds around to reduce heat.
I was happy with my work feeling the flare had more die marks than warping from my welding.
So standing back I see something I am not sure I like.
This may not just be a welding question but what a factory 914 GT looks like?
What I am seeing is, before the flare, flares out, the fender pulls in. I see this mostly in the back of the front flare. I have only cut the 2nd front fender off and I see the remaining fender has pulled in before any welding.
This is a first time for me and I am sure there is a lot to be learned with many years in the business.
So is the pulling in the norm? In all the beautiful photos of clean lines, how much body filler is reasonable.
Is there ways to limit this from the start or is this normally fixed with hammer and dolly as you go?
I will try to add a photo of where it is pulling in.

Thanks

[scotty b]

Your fender most likely was already a little buckled, or you got it a bit hot when welding and sucked in. These flares are not a " perfect " fit but are a damn good start. The way you proceeded is a god way to go. I always keep my hammer and dolly by my side and work the seam as I am welding. I also do not run beads. I just connect spot/tack welds. This way I can get it set in place, then work the gap shut, add another tack, work the gap back together etc.

[ruby914]

Your fender most likely was already a little buckled, or you got it a bit hot when welding and sucked in. These flares are not a " perfect " fit but are a damn good start. The way you proceeded is a god way to go. I always keep my hammer and dolly by my side and work the seam as I am welding. I also do not run beads. I just connect spot/tack welds. This way I can get it set in place, then work the gap shut, add another tack, work the gap back together etc.

Sometimes it is not easy for the grasshopper to see the forest through the trees.
Both of my front 1/4 panels had been replaced by PO. For the most part it was not bad work. Some smaller things I wish were better but it is what it is and I am getting the chance to clean up some old repairs.

Scotty you and Rick were spot on.
That was body filler, you can see how I removed most and thought I had something reasonable to work with but I am sure that added to what I have now.
The other side will be tacks, no 1/2 beads, only tacks.

After welding, I found the door gap larger. I found where the PO brazed the aft end of the 1/4 panel top and bottom had snapped. With out that tacked the metal was free to draw in.
I managed to pull it back and re-weld it with a reasonable door gap.
Now, I am working on pulling that dip out. I saw a propane torch in a photo?
In an effort to pull that dip out I have tried heating it with a map gas torch.
That seems to be working with the help of small bottle jacks against the inner fender pushing out on the area. Wet sponge for strategic cooling.

I will be back at it tomorrow so if any of that sounds (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif) let me know.

thanks all
and Scotty (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)

[pdlightning]

Your fender most likely was already a little buckled, or you got it a bit hot when welding and sucked in. These flares are not a " perfect " fit but are a damn good start. The way you proceeded is a god way to go. I always keep my hammer and dolly by my side and work the seam as I am welding. I also do not run beads. I just connect spot/tack welds. This way I can get it set in place, then work the gap shut, add another tack, work the gap back together etc.

Sometimes it is not easy for the grasshopper to see the forest through the trees.
Both of my front 1/4 panels had been replaced by PO. For the most part it was not bad work. Some smaller things I wish were better but it is what it is and I am getting the chance to clean up some old repairs.

Scotty you and Rick were spot on.
That was body filler, you can see how I removed most and thought I had something reasonable to work with but I am sure that added to what I have now.
The other side will be tacks, no 1/2 beads, only tacks.

After welding, I found the door gap larger. I found where the PO brazed the aft end of the 1/4 panel top and bottom had snapped. With out that tacked the metal was free to draw in.
I managed to pull it back and re-weld it with a reasonable door gap.
Now, I am working on pulling that dip out. I saw a propane torch in a photo?
In an effort to pull that dip out I have tried heating it with a map gas torch.
That seems to be working with the help of small bottle jacks against the inner fender pushing out on the area. Wet sponge for strategic cooling.

I will be back at it tomorrow so if any of that sounds (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif) let me know.

thanks all
and Scotty (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)

Although still in the early stages of planning with my steel flair install, I purchased these.
http://www.eastwood.com/intergrip-panel-clamps-set-of-4.html

They were cheap especially at Eastwood during a Christmas sale for 5.99 a set

They hold both planes plumb and level. My fabricator buddy mentioned using them, tig welding and then leading the panels in.

Old school, but cool if you know how to do it. Anyone here done that recently?