Type I Oil pump for front mounted oil cooler?, Does anything else need to be done other than griding the tab? |
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Type I Oil pump for front mounted oil cooler?, Does anything else need to be done other than griding the tab? |
ThePaintedMan |
Jan 24 2012, 12:20 AM
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#1
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,886 Joined: 6-September 11 From: St. Petersburg, FL Member No.: 13,527 Region Association: South East States |
Hello all,
I've tried searching for this question, but haven't found anything definitive. Though its still a ways off, I am hoping to add the ol' RX-7 oil cooler up front, complete with a custom fiberglass valence on this '73 1.7. In the meantime, while I've got the motor sitting here in the driveway, I wanted to switch to the heavy-duty oil pump. I have heard this is a good idea with an oil cooler mounted a ways from the pump. I'll be using the sandwich adapter and keeping the stock cooler as well. My question is mostly pertaining to the relief valve inside the motor. Do you have to replace it if you use the type I pump? Will it dramatically increase oil pressure if you don't? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks! |
Jake Raby |
Jan 26 2012, 11:24 PM
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#2
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Engine Surgeon Group: Members Posts: 9,394 Joined: 31-August 03 From: Lost Member No.: 1,095 Region Association: South East States |
Equip the engine with proper instrumentation and place senders in the smart locations. Monitor CHT under the spark plugs and OT in the oil sump. The oil in these engines isn't "hot" till 225*. Even if you hit a 225F oil temp and the oil you are using has enough high temperature viscosity to maintain oil pressure- run it.
The SAE standard for high level viscosity is set at 212F, not all oils that are a 40XX grade or 50xx grade at 212F are still that same grade at 225F, some fall like a ton of bricks at 215F, others love temp and will maintain stable oil pressure clear past 240F and some clear to 300* in our exotic lines. If the oil is a 50 grade at 212, but it drops off to a 30 grade at 240F you will have bigger issues and lower pressures. The moral of the story is to do what the engine needs and determine that by LISTENING to what it WANTS. This is why you have gauges- lots of up front preventive fixes are simply catalyst for failure, or simply aren't needed and do nothing except complicate the car/ engine and empty your wallet. Hell, I WANT my engines to run 215-220F oil temps all the time, until that happens the impurities in the oil aren't "cooked off". Try it out, see what you have and develop a plan based on what you NEED. Sebring has some of the most adverse conditions found in the US during the summer with high heat, 140* track temps and super high humidity while being very near (at) sea level. The main thing that will keep your engine coolest is proper optimization of the tune for these conditions. Better tuning= efficiency; efficiency= cooler running, better running and more fun. This post has been edited by Jake Raby: Jan 26 2012, 11:25 PM |
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