Ignition switch wont connect..., When using the key. **Solved** Options

[Bob L.]

Hi again,

I need some help with the Ignition switch...

The old one stopped working before I bought the car and a bypass button was installed. I has worked fine.
position.

I finally got around to replacing the electrical switch portion of the system. The first funny thing I noticed is that the wires used for the bypass switch don't appear to be the ones that go to the terminals that connect when the switch is turned to the "start".



When I turn the switch terminals A&B connect but the wires used to bypass the switch seem to go to A&C.
Am I just following the wires wrong?
I did have to modify the switch to fit into the key mechanism by Filing off a tab and a bump off to allow the switch to fully seat into key mech.

The problem I'm having is the new switch doesn't work when its in the mechanism. only when I have it out by itself. I can turn the insides with a screwdriver and the terminals will show continuity. I think the "key mechanism" is not turning far enough to make the connection inside the switch. The same thing is happening with the old switch (it is cracked), Works outside the key mech, but not in it.
Anyone had this one before?
Thanks,
Bob

[aircooledtechguy]

I've run into similar problems on late model air-cooled VW beetles (which have a similar ignition switch/key/steering lock arrangement).

What I have found is that sometimes it's the piece that is between the key tumbler and the electrical switch. This little section that actually works the steering lock is basically 2 flat discs that have an off-set cam that works the steering lock. I've found that over time, they can actually twist slightly (probably brought on my someone forcing the key with pressure on the steering lock) and it now prohibits the electrical switch from turning enough to engage the correct tabs internally. The only solution I've found for cars with this problem, is to replace the entire steering/lock assembly since you can't get just the part that is worn.

When this has been the issue, the ignition key will only engage the "ON" position, not the "start" (though you can feel the spring tension that the start position has; it just won't engage the starter motor and there's no indication of load on the dash lights). If you remove just the electrical portion of the switch the engine fires right up using a screw driver = the switch is not being turned far enough = bad steering/lock assembly. I go and install a good used steering/lock assembly, and the cars start right up using the same key tumbler and electrical switch. . .

This may not be the problem you are experiencing, but it's one that I have run into here at my shop several times over the past couple years. . .