Rusted Longs - Mayeur kit will Fix? - can,t add Pics :-( Options

[gbg10000]

Hi All-

I bought a project car site unseen. It was a gamble, and it is worse than I imagined.

Passenger Long is very bad (photo) Door will still open and shut but gap is very narrow. Rear Floor will also need replace.

Question, would the Brad Mayeur kit alone fix this??

I know I probably need pictures of other areas, but if I am not interested in engine bay cosmetics or autocross stiffness, would I need other reinforcing components in the hell hole area or inner long areas for a daily driver scenario?

I have never welded before, and will only be able to have the car on jack stands. I envision buying a cheap 120v flux wire welder and trying it myself. I do not need the covered areas to look pretty underneath, but I do need a good safe structure.

Comments, advice and opinions appreciated.

Thank you.


This post has been edited by gbg10000: Mar 17 2012, 10:13 AM

[ThePaintedMan]

Wow, the long looks almost exactly like what I got myself into. See my thread at the bottom of this page in my signature. It IS possible to do this with a cheap 120v flux welder, I don't care what anyone says. But its much harder. And even worse if you don't buy the restoration design replacement pieces. It does not necessarily need to be expensive. But if you short cut, it won't look as nice as others. For me, it was a learning process anyway, so I basically brought a car back to life that had no business being restored. It would have been cheaper and easier to find a decent roller, but in Florida that is a lot harder than it sounds. I would say just in metal alone, you're looking at upwards of 500-600 dollars in parts from RD. If you go the long, drawn out and cheaper route like I did, it may be no more than 50 bucks. But keep in mind, every piece that you fabricate requires cutting discs, blades, etc. This adds up quickly. If I had to do it over again I probably would have bought all the metal instead (fitment will always be better as well).

Before you do anything else, make sure to read, read, read the many threads here. It helped me immensely. Also, before cutting into or welding anything, make sure to make yourself a door brace that goes between the B pillar seat belt bolt and door mounting bolts. This will keep the gaps straight so everything fits when done. Good luck!

Also, noticed you're in FL. Is this Jacksonville? You could make a trip down to Series 9 in DeLand, FL. They do this stuff for a living! Or, if you happen to be down in Tampa/St. Petersburg I can show you what I know, which is admittedly still very little (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)