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gbg10000 |
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Newbie ![]() Group: Members Posts: 5 Joined: 17-March 12 From: northeast florida Member No.: 14,261 Region Association: None ![]() |
Hi All-
I bought a project car site unseen. It was a gamble, and it is worse than I imagined. Passenger Long is very bad (photo) Door will still open and shut but gap is very narrow. Rear Floor will also need replace. Question, would the Brad Mayeur kit alone fix this?? I know I probably need pictures of other areas, but if I am not interested in engine bay cosmetics or autocross stiffness, would I need other reinforcing components in the hell hole area or inner long areas for a daily driver scenario? I have never welded before, and will only be able to have the car on jack stands. I envision buying a cheap 120v flux wire welder and trying it myself. I do not need the covered areas to look pretty underneath, but I do need a good safe structure. Comments, advice and opinions appreciated. Thank you. This post has been edited by gbg10000: Mar 17 2012, 10:13 AM Attached thumbnail(s) ![]() |
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ape914 |
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red locktite ![]() ![]() Group: Retired Members Posts: 240 Joined: 7-February 11 From: In front of a computer Member No.: 12,676 Region Association: None ![]() |
me and a friend ended up scraping one that had simular damage, and transfered the good parts to a better body. Some times they are not worth the fixxing. This one is pretty toasted, sorry.
PS suspension ear looks suspect, if there is rust ozzing from the bottom seams of the ear, it likely has a good deal of rust internally, they are made of about three layers of metal, and the water gets in there and the rust is history. Also if you see signs of bulging of the metal, likely that is caused by rust under the outer layer of metal, forcing the bulge out. Hit the bulges with a hammer, and see if it open ups a hole, no bother if it does, you didn't hurt anything cause it was near ready to fail anyway. if either is the case, failure is forth coming and it should too be replaced. |
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