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gbg10000 |
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#1
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Newbie ![]() Group: Members Posts: 5 Joined: 17-March 12 From: northeast florida Member No.: 14,261 Region Association: None ![]() |
Hi All-
I bought a project car site unseen. It was a gamble, and it is worse than I imagined. Passenger Long is very bad (photo) Door will still open and shut but gap is very narrow. Rear Floor will also need replace. Question, would the Brad Mayeur kit alone fix this?? I know I probably need pictures of other areas, but if I am not interested in engine bay cosmetics or autocross stiffness, would I need other reinforcing components in the hell hole area or inner long areas for a daily driver scenario? I have never welded before, and will only be able to have the car on jack stands. I envision buying a cheap 120v flux wire welder and trying it myself. I do not need the covered areas to look pretty underneath, but I do need a good safe structure. Comments, advice and opinions appreciated. Thank you. This post has been edited by gbg10000: Mar 17 2012, 10:13 AM Attached thumbnail(s) ![]() |
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SCV |
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#2
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Aircooled Enthusiast ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 92 Joined: 1-August 09 From: Austin, Texas Member No.: 10,630 Region Association: None ![]() |
Here's one more vote for spending the extra cash to get a regulator, solid wire, and a bottle of shielding gas. A true MIG setup makes welding thin sheet metal so much easier to accomplish without burn-through than flux-cored wire. True, what you want to do could be accomplished with flux-cored wire, but why make an already involved job any more difficult? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif)(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)
-Stephen |
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