Engine rebuild, The reassembly started ! Options

[Valy]

I got a spare engine with my car. The engine looks nice but the PO drained the oil out and left the sump open. Then he wrapped it in plastic wrap and dropped the engine on the left head so it has a nice crack.
Got myself a new pair of heads that are rebuilt right now.

It's going to be a big L-Jet as I don't have the patience to deal with the old D-Jet (although I have all the parts for a D-Jet). I
I'm going to make it a 2056cc unless in change my mind and go crazy with a bigger crank (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

I started taking the engine apart and going to document as much as I can.

Not my first rebuild but is my first Type4 rebuild so wish me luck!

Today I got pistons 3 & 4 out.

#3 looks nice, not too much signs of wear. The ring gaps are about 1mm (trash)
#4 is also nice but the piston got a small bent while trying to remove the pin. That bent trapped the oil ring. Never mind, I'm going for bigger one anyway.

The cylinder registers are nice. In fact, the entire case is very nice and clean.

Anyone knows the meaning of the inscriptions on the cylinders and pistons?

[Valy]

One very important remark regarding rod assembly that I was too tired to write last evening:

The rod nuts should be torqued to 23.9 ft*lbs when oiled. Oiled torque is equivalent to about 30% higher dry torque (31 ft*lbs when dry).
I mention this here since both the Tom Wilson manual and Jake video are misleading on this point.

Tom recommends to use Loctite thread locker on the nuts to prevent them from unlocking. This requires the threads to be completely clean and dry before they are torqued so the actual torque on the nut will be 23% lower than specified. The Loctite might help a bit here but I wouldn't count on it too much over time. Maybe he's adding the Loctite to compensate for his previous errors of tightening those nuts too low but two wrongs don't make one right.

Jake shows how he degrees the rods with carb cleaner and then drys them with compressed air, just before asembly. Then he torques them to 24 ft*lbs dry. Again, that torque is 30% lower than specified. I guess that in the process of showing how well he cleans the rods and bearings and the video editing, the thread lubrication was lost.