starter relay, next gen modification Options

[Tom]

Well, been meaning to get this done for a while. Didn't want the hot start kit from Bosche or the Ford relay, so I found one on line that I liked.
Installed the relay on a small bracket on one of the mounting screws for the relay board. Ran a new small yellow wire to pin 6 of the 12 pin connector and a brown ground wire to the bracket . Ran two 12 ga. wires fron the relay to the solenoid with the hot wire having an inline water resistant ATC fuse holder with a 30 amp fuse. Put some heat shrink around the normally used large yellow wire to protect it. On the solenoid side used tape to protect the connector that used to be hooked to the solenoid.
This relay uses 140 mili-amp so not a very large inductive spike to worry about, but I installed a supression diode across the relay coil anyway. Also put a larger one across the solenoid coil at the relay ( 87 to ground). This supresses the solenoid coil inductive spike to protect the relay contacts.
here are a few pics, and a link to more info: http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&a...eg_6KDxZdKYQYGw This is the aeroelectric link
Oh, I tested it several times and it works just fine.
Tom
Edit: changed back EMF to inductive spike, sorry if this confused anyone. Inductive or transient spike is the correct term for what is happening here

[Tom]

As you can see from the pictures the large yellow wire needs to be removed from the 12 pin connector and insulated at that end as well as the starter end. A new 20 ga. yellow wire needs to be soldered to the pin for #6 of the 12 pin connector. The other end will need to be soldered to the anode of D1. The cathode end of D1 and a 20 ga. white wire need to be crimped/soldered or both depending on the type of female spade connector being used and this connector labeled 86. The other end of this white wire will go to either side of the push switch.
The other white wire from the [push switch will need to go into another female spade connector along with one of the large 12 ga. red wires and be labeled 30. This red wire will need to be about 5 to 5 and 1/2 feet long as it and the other large red wire goes back to the starter area. The starter end of this wire is where you need to place the inline fuse holder and on the end of the fuse holder wire you will need a ring terminal to place on the starter terminal with the battery lead. The other red wire needs a female spade connector and should be labeled 87. The other end of this wire(87) will also need a female spade connector to allow connecting to the solenoid male spade connector. The last wire is a 20 ga brown that needs to be long enough to place a ring terminal under one of the securing screws on the relay board ( ground).
The diodes are there to D1- steer the push button voltage to only the relay and not back to the #6 pin of the 12 pin connector, and D2 - to suppress the inductive spike and give the relay contacts a longer life.
Some parts were ordered from DELCITY and some Radio Shack or local parts houses. I carry an extra relay just in case it goes out as it may be hard to find one at inopportune times.
As can be seen in the pics, I don't have a rear window defog relay. If I did, I would have had to route the wires a little differently. Also check your relay board for the metal insert to screw the hold down bolt into. Later one don't always have it. Mine did not and I made one from brass and glued it in.
Before you attempt this, please have someone you trust with electrics look over the schematic and give a second opinion for you.
Tom