Can't get starter to work, grrr.. Options

[3liter914-6]

Ok, so I'm trying to start the car after putting it back together, and can't get the thing to crank.

I originally had a loose ground strap, but I have since installed a new one (I assume it doesn't matter where on the tranny it bolts to as long as the surfaces are clean, I installed it on a lower nut for easier access.) First time I cranked the key maybe 1-2 cranks. Tried again and clunk. clunk. swapped battery. clunk. clunk. Went and got a helper to crank while I messed with the starter. Actually got it to crank a whole bunch, maybe 10-15 revolutions, by wiggiling the 12V from the battery, next turn of the key...clunk. Cleaned post and cable with emory and brakleen. Couldn't get it to crank again. Had helper try while screwing with starter some more (tapping with hammer, noticed the ground strap that goes from bolt on solenoid to starter was smoking. During all this clunking the starter was getting very hot. Thought maybe the used SR68X was at fault, so I swapped in the original .8hp starter which worked fine before the rebuild. still nothing. Checked connections at battery, recleaned ground strap, still nothing. Ran jumper cables from battery to 12V post on starter and tranny ground strap, still nothing. Anyone have any ideas? Could both starters be bad? Am I missing something? One thing I am missing is I guess I'm supposed to have a cable from the Alternator? I can't find it... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif) and don't remember it ever being there.


Thanks,

Adam

[3liter914-6]

is it engaging the flywheel and not turning it over?  could try pulling the plugs to at least get it spinning and lube up the internals.

I think it must be, I just got back from the garage where I messed with giving 12V to various terminals. Bench testing on the /6 one first.

Test #1. 12V to flag terminal. Ok, so the audible pop/click that I hear when the starter cable is disconnected and the key turns is the solenoid popping out. This works on both the /6 starter, and the SR68X starter (at least I think so, see test 3).

Test #2. 12V to 2nd nut on starter. Motor on both /6 and 68X spins freely and quickly.

Test #3. 12V to Solenoid and 2nd nut. /6 off car extends arm and spins. 68X clunks.
so that means to me that the starter is engaging the flywheel.

*time passes*

I just got back from Pep Boys where I picked up a new battery (replacement Optima) and had the /6 starter tested. They ran it and it checked out fine by their standards. Basically hooked it up and let it spin and measured the amps it pulled down (around 50 or 60 Amps at full chat). I'm wondering if this is an effective test of the starter. Couldn't it spin like the dickens without a load placed on it, but not have enough grunt to crank an engine over?

I gotta think that something else is wrong though, granted 1 starter hasn't been used in 4 years and the other is from a junkyard, but what could it be? even if I completely bypass the wiring on the car, the starter won't crank when engaging the flywheel. Should the wire to the batt and starter/solenoid get so hot though? After 3 or 4 clunks, the cable gets so hot I can smell it.

Could I have screwed something up on the install that's somehow preventing the starter from turning? I don't think this much of a possibility as, like I said earlier, the first time before I swapped anything I got it to crank the engine without any changes to the mechanical orientation.


Thanks for any more help. If someone could shed some like on the validity of the Pep Boys test, that'd be a big help as I could then see about getting a rebuilt starter for tomorrow.

As always, any suggestions are much appreciated.

Thanks,

Adam