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> Electrical Gremlins, HELP!!!
richardL
post May 29 2004, 01:46 PM
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So my car ran the other day without problems. At first there seemed to be electrical issues, then they miraculously went away and now they are back.

Now its completely dead on the ignition switched circuits.

The car has carbs and hence no FI, most of that wiring is removed.

The battery is charged, the parking lights work and the instrument panel lights come on as well, the green parking light light as well.

I thought there was a problem on the ignition switch, so I have a brand new race style switch. Power in, switched power out, starter out.

With the ignition off I am getting around 13 volts at the switch. When I turn on the switch I get 0 volts. I disconnected all the three output wires (red, black and a thin red, which I think is for the voltmeter) and then I have 13V at the output terminal of the switch. If I connect any one of the three output wires again I get 0V. With them disconnected, if I try the starter, momentary switch the voltage goes to 0V - the starter doesn't try to turn or anything.

I removed all the fuses, just in case, and it has no effect on the above symptoms.

I also have an external kill switch and I always seem to have the expected 13V at the output of that, even when the ignition is switched on and doing nothing.

I am confused, as any kind of connection seems to kill the voltage, yet the battery seems OK and can support side lights at least.

Am I missing something obvious? Am I being dumb? How should I go about diagnosing this? Any suggestions would be very gratefully received.

Richard
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richardL
post May 29 2004, 03:49 PM
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I tried connecting directly from the kill switch to the yellow input to the starter solenoid and it turned over. When I tried shorting from the red power at the ig switch to the starter - nothing. So I jumpered a wire from the kill switch and touched it to the starter post of the ig switch and it cranked. Similarly when I touched it to the thin red out wire I got a good voltage reading on the volt meter (instrument gauge).

So the problem appears to be between the kill switch post to the ignition switch on the input power side - any kind of load is making the resistence really high (which I don't understand).

Any how I am going to get some suitable gauge wire and replace that power wire and hopefully I will be back in business.

We'll see...

Richard
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