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wndsnd |
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You wanted a horse, but got a goat. Nobody wants a goat.... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,861 Joined: 12-February 12 From: North Shore, MA Member No.: 14,124 Region Association: North East States ![]() ![]() |
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I am really second thinking buying this car that lived in MAINE its whole life. Nothing is as it should be during dissasembly, and I am working with penetrants, heat, leverage, and will power and destroying almost everything coming off. I am now on replaceing the front struts and am at the lower ball joint. The Hayes manual calls for a hex nut or taperd thread stud. I think I have the later after removing the nut from one side. This stud I have map torched, and soaked with penetrant, and have pounded on with a mallet. looks like a little give on the other side but I don't think I am using the propers tools or technique. Any help or advise would be appreaciated... At this point it I am flatening the end of the stud. John Attached thumbnail(s) ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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malaga_red75 |
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'74 2.5L N/A Subie ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 454 Joined: 5-March 06 From: Menlo Park, CA Member No.: 5,674 Region Association: None ![]() |
John,
I just did this during my 5-lug conversion. I also had the tapered thread stud. While it is a PITA to get out, I just used a hammer (they will need to be replaced anyway) and went at it. It eventually came out. One recommendation is to put a jack underneath the ball joint and jack it up so there is just a little bit of pressure of the ball joint. This will help 'neutralize' the forces on the joint itself. Also, if you have access to a tie-rod puller (ball joint separator), it can be maneuvered (depending on the style tool) and used to press out that stud. All else fails, get a bigger hammer. -Peter |
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