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wndsnd |
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You wanted a horse, but got a goat. Nobody wants a goat.... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,861 Joined: 12-February 12 From: North Shore, MA Member No.: 14,124 Region Association: North East States ![]() ![]() |
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I am really second thinking buying this car that lived in MAINE its whole life. Nothing is as it should be during dissasembly, and I am working with penetrants, heat, leverage, and will power and destroying almost everything coming off. I am now on replaceing the front struts and am at the lower ball joint. The Hayes manual calls for a hex nut or taperd thread stud. I think I have the later after removing the nut from one side. This stud I have map torched, and soaked with penetrant, and have pounded on with a mallet. looks like a little give on the other side but I don't think I am using the propers tools or technique. Any help or advise would be appreaciated... At this point it I am flatening the end of the stud. John Attached thumbnail(s) ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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r_towle |
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Custom Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 24,705 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States ![]() ![]() |
ball joint is bolted from below the a-arm.
Its about a 2 inch round "nut" Use a pipe wrench... remove the cotter pin and locking plate. It has teeth in it so it wont turn till the nut is all the way out. once the nut is off, tap the ball joint from below, it will come out the top. If none of that makes sense...lookup the part (you need new ones anyways...so you can see a picture. Rich Rich |
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