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> Best paint to use, Plan on following directions exactly
Randal
post Sep 13 2012, 12:35 PM
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Painting my rear flares this weekend.

Which paint have you used that worked according to instructions?

IMHO would rather pay more and have it work, than to be disappointed with the results and have to do it over.

Appreciate all advice.

Plan on doing a base coat, then clear.

The flares are fiberglass.
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scotty b
post Sep 13 2012, 06:39 PM
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rust free you say ?
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ask 20 chefs what the best way to prepare a steak is.


Best Paint ??

Glasurit, Spies Hecker, Standox will be the tops, but they aren't cheap, and no matter how wonderful the paint is, the painter will make all the difference.

The biggest differences in cheap paints and expensive paitns break down into two things.

1: Cea paints use fewer pigments to create a colo. For example, to create guards red, Nason ( cheap ) may only use 3 pigments to achieve the final color whereas Spies will use 7 pigments to achieve the final color. Whereas the higher end paints will be a closer match to the TRUE color. This makes a difference in a high end high value job, and also in future repairs.

2: solid content. Cheap paints ( clears ) use a lot of solvents and binders that evaporate as the paint is applied and dries. The higher end paints use more actual solid paint. They take fewer coats, they set up better, they buff out to a better shine. I tell people it is like comparing skim milk to whole milk. There is a NOTICABLE difference in weight between a gallon of cheap clear and a gallon of expensive clear.

Remember with anything, the prep work and skills are the biggest factor.
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Randal
post Sep 15 2012, 10:53 AM
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QUOTE(scotty b @ Sep 13 2012, 05:39 PM) *

ask 20 chefs what the best way to prepare a steak is.


Best Paint ??

Glasurit, Spies Hecker, Standox will be the tops, but they aren't cheap, and no matter how wonderful the paint is, the painter will make all the difference.

The biggest differences in cheap paints and expensive paitns break down into two things.

1: Cea paints use fewer pigments to create a colo. For example, to create guards red, Nason ( cheap ) may only use 3 pigments to achieve the final color whereas Spies will use 7 pigments to achieve the final color. Whereas the higher end paints will be a closer match to the TRUE color. This makes a difference in a high end high value job, and also in future repairs.

2: solid content. Cheap paints ( clears ) use a lot of solvents and binders that evaporate as the paint is applied and dries. The higher end paints use more actual solid paint. They take fewer coats, they set up better, they buff out to a better shine. I tell people it is like comparing skim milk to whole milk. There is a NOTICABLE difference in weight between a gallon of cheap clear and a gallon of expensive clear.

Remember with anything, the prep work and skills are the biggest factor.



I'm prepping the flares today and taking my time. And I picked up some really expensive clear and will follow the directions, so hoping the parts come out OK. It is a race car, but we all like things to look perfect at least once, before we go out and throw rocks at the part on a course.

BTW the tough part (painting) (for me) has been the chemistry. I worked in a body shop in high school, so got some (supervised) time behind a gun, but the water based paints present entirely new challenges.

Thanks for the advice. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/santa_smiley.gif)
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