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wndsnd |
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#1
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You wanted a horse, but got a goat. Nobody wants a goat.... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,861 Joined: 12-February 12 From: North Shore, MA Member No.: 14,124 Region Association: North East States ![]() ![]() |
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I am really second thinking buying this car that lived in MAINE its whole life. Nothing is as it should be during dissasembly, and I am working with penetrants, heat, leverage, and will power and destroying almost everything coming off. I am now on replaceing the front struts and am at the lower ball joint. The Hayes manual calls for a hex nut or taperd thread stud. I think I have the later after removing the nut from one side. This stud I have map torched, and soaked with penetrant, and have pounded on with a mallet. looks like a little give on the other side but I don't think I am using the propers tools or technique. Any help or advise would be appreaciated... At this point it I am flatening the end of the stud. John Attached thumbnail(s) ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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jmill |
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#2
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Green Hornet ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,449 Joined: 9-May 08 From: Racine, Wisconsin Member No.: 9,038 Region Association: Upper MidWest ![]() |
It looks like you have the correct replacement but unfortunately you'll need a special tool to install it. BTDT. I got gouged calling Bilstein East and paid like $20 for it. If you need it try and borrow one or call Bilstein West. I hear the lady there is nice and might send it for free.
BTW - you still need to get the pin out to remove the ball joint remains from your strut. Also I had better luck cutting off the round castle nut from the ball joint. Carefully cut it without messing up the arm. Then take a chisel and split the nut. It'll thread off easy. |
TargaToy |
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#3
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-NONSOLIS RADIOS SEDIOUIS FULMINA MITTO- ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 712 Joined: 26-March 10 From: DelMarVa Peninsula Member No.: 11,509 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region ![]() ![]() |
Also I had better luck cutting off the round castle nut from the ball joint. Carefully cut it without messing up the arm. Then take a chisel and split the nut. It'll thread off easy. Hijacking and resurrecting a thread all in one shot.... What's the easiest way to cut this nut? I presume you have to come in almost on a diagonal because it's partially obstructed by the lip on the lower arm. By the way, I have these parts out of the car so I can flip them around as necessary. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) |
infraredcalvin |
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#4
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Distracted Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,628 Joined: 25-August 08 From: Ladera Ranch, CA Member No.: 9,463 Region Association: Southern California ![]() ![]() |
Also I had better luck cutting off the round castle nut from the ball joint. Carefully cut it without messing up the arm. Then take a chisel and split the nut. It'll thread off easy. Hijacking and resurrecting a thread all in one shot.... What's the easiest way to cut this nut? I presume you have to come in almost on a diagonal because it's partially obstructed by the lip on the lower arm. By the way, I have these parts out of the car so I can flip them around as necessary. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) 1st try the pipe wrench, with heat and pb blaster (not at the same time). I made mine much harder trying to follow the chisel/hammer method first. After destroying the nut with a chisel and hammer, I used a dremel with a (many) cutoff wheel, it was a PIA but eventually it worked. Don't worry about cutting into the balljoint as it lifts out the top once the nut is removed and is replaced anyway. As stated be careful not to cut into the a arm. |
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