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> Tunnel Repair, Several questions here....
malcolm2
post Oct 30 2012, 09:38 PM
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Not sure why by one of my POs has used a U-bolt to hold down one of the tubes in the tunnel. At this point I am not sure what goes in the tube (poor documentation on my part), but anyway I am wondering if there is a better way to repair this.

Attached Image

Someone cut a couple extra holes in the top of the tunnel and it looks like the brace for this tube was welded to the location where the hole was cut. Or maybe the brace broke.

Attached Image

and finally a shot from under the car.

Attached Image

This is the larger of the the 2 tubes running to the pedal cluster. The smaller one is tucked up high on the top side near the driver.

Q1: Clutch or Accel?
Q2: Should I just leave the u-bolt? Better idea?
Q3: surface rust throughout the tunnel. Impossible to get to. I was thinking of using the Eastwood interior frame spray as a rust killer. Better ideas?

Thanks,
Clark


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IanS
post Oct 31 2012, 01:51 PM
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Mine has the exact same issue and u-bolt repair. And of course rust in the tunnel.
I didn't see any replies in this thread on the rust - is the Eastwood or similar kit the way to go? The tunnel itself looks to be a PITA to remove cleanly though I saw the one in the F/S section that looked very nicely done.
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malcolm2
post Oct 31 2012, 04:37 PM
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QUOTE(IanS @ Oct 31 2012, 02:51 PM) *

Mine has the exact same issue and u-bolt repair. And of course rust in the tunnel.
I didn't see any replies in this thread on the rust - is the Eastwood or similar kit the way to go? The tunnel itself looks to be a PITA to remove cleanly though I saw the one in the F/S section that looked very nicely done.



Everything that wants to come out of the tunnel of my car is out. That leaves Accel tube, clutch tube (loose but not coming out) the very front hold down bracket will not let the flared end pass thru. both heat cable tubes also remain. I have removed the rear-most section of the floor panel so I have decent access right now.

Next I read about using some METAL READY first. Then I will try the Eastwood internal frame spray when dry and that is about all I can do. I guess POR is spray-able, but I am not prepared for that.
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