What is the proper Head Stud extraction tool? - Now to reinstall them. Options

[stugray]

I have tried a couple of methods for removing the head studs from the case.
Double Nut rarely works.
I bought the NAPA stud removal tool, and while it is the perfect tool when you have room, it does not work in such tight areas as our middle head studs.

I looked for all kinds of "stud removal tools", but most of them are for broken studs, not for removing studs without 'munging up' the threads.

What does everyone else use?

A search does not turn up a simple 10mm stud extractor that wont tear up the threads.

Stu

[stugray]

You chase with a chaser, not a tap. If you chase with a tap your stud will fit wobbly. Use threadlocker, not anti-seize.

Last time I checked the threads are cut with a tap. How can running another tap through the same hole make the threads any bigger? Did the factory use a 10mm-0.01 Tap when making the original holes? I have tapped thousands of holes in all kinds of materials, and I dont see how using the same sized tap again on the same hole can make it any bigger ( unless you are heavy handed and cant stay straight).

As for the thread locker vs. anti-sieze: These studs were harder to remove than almost ANY nut/bolt I have ever removed including seized Wheel nuts... Some of the studs seemed to twist 90 degrees before breaking loose. I dont believe that much torque should be needed to remove head studs. When I removed them the "black walnut" smell I was referring to was Loctite Red which IMO is way overkill.
I was always taught that when installing Steel studs into aluminum threads that you "should" use anti-seize. At work, we are not allowed to EVER put steel threads into AL. we must use steel inserts.

Still just curious. Deck Height machining should occur this weekend and I should start putting it back together next week.

Thanks for the tips - I WISH I could afford that bolt extractor set!

Stu

[rtalich]

You chase with a chaser, not a tap. If you chase with a tap your stud will fit wobbly. Use threadlocker, not anti-seize.

Last time I checked the threads are cut with a tap. How can running another tap through the same hole make the threads any bigger? Did the factory use a 10mm-0.01 Tap when making the original holes? I have tapped thousands of holes in all kinds of materials, and I dont see how using the same sized tap again on the same hole can make it any bigger ( unless you are heavy handed and cant stay straight).

If you don't believe this than go ahead and try it for yourself. Instead of making some smart ass comment.