L-Jetronic Dual Relay on 1.8, Followed the old thread but pumps now runs without key in ignition Options

[motorvated]

My fuel pump was running continuously with the key in the "on" position, so I found the old thread dealing with wiring the dual relay properly and testing the Air Flow Sensor and followed the diagnostics and testing stated in there. Air Flow Sensor tested fine, wiring as specified, and now the pump runs with no key in the ignition. I think the pump was re-wired to run through the ignition switch, which I know was wrong. Now I think I may have a bad ignition side on the dual relay. The relay has two numbers on it. Ignition side says 071 906 059. The FI side says 0332 514 129. All connectors are designated on the relay with the same numbers in the same positions as the 120 that the old thread used. The old thread was great to follow as long as things went as planned. In this case, the result was a failure to operate correctly once all the wiring was reconfigured. Any help out there?

[timothy_nd28]

I just read your little side note at the end, you really have no other wires? On that side of the dual relay you should have a big red wire on pin 88z that goes to the battery, then a jumper from 88z to 88y (this you do have). The others, you should have a yellow wire going to pin 86a (ignition "start" 12vdc source). Then a brown wire going to pin 85 (ground). Next will be a smaller gauge black wire on pin 86c (ignition "on" 12vdc source). Lastly, you should have a bigger black wire with red stripe going to pin 88d (powers up the fuel pump). Without these wires attached, I don't see how the car could even start. That brown wire feeds ground for both parts of the relay. Without a ground wire supplying the dual relay, pin 88a and 88b will never make contact, thus no power to ECU or the resistor pack. Maybe these missing wires are cut back at the harness, do you have a harness that plugs into the 12 pin relay board connector? If the wires are merely cut back, perhaps a quick trip to Radio Shack might be the answer. Also, where is the fuel pump located on this car? I remember reading somewhere that this is a 1.7L car with a 1.8 Ljet retrofit? If this is the case, which style fuel pump are you using?

[motorvated]

I just read your little side note at the end, you really have no other wires? On that side of the dual relay you should have a big red wire on pin 88z that goes to the battery, then a jumper from 88z to 88y (this you do have). The others, you should have a yellow wire going to pin 86a (ignition "start" 12vdc source). Then a brown wire going to pin 85 (ground). Next will be a smaller gauge black wire on pin 86c (ignition "on" 12vdc source). Lastly, you should have a bigger black wire with red stripe going to pin 88d (powers up the fuel pump). Without these wires attached, I don't see how the car could even start. That brown wire feeds ground for both parts of the relay. Without a ground wire supplying the dual relay, pin 88a and 88b will never make contact, thus no power to ECU or the resistor pack. Maybe these missing wires are cut back at the harness, do you have a harness that plugs into the 12 pin relay board connector? If the wires are merely cut back, perhaps a quick trip to Radio Shack might be the answer. Also, where is the fuel pump located on this car? I remember reading somewhere that this is a 1.7L car with a 1.8 Ljet retrofit? If this is the case, which style fuel pump are you using?

Sorry for the confusion. I have the other wires, but had everything disconnected except for the 88z and 88y jumper, because that's where you had me starting from. I have a ground coming off the motor on terminal 85. I have a 12 volt wire coming off the distributor + which is hot with ignition on, this is on terminal 86c. There was no wire on terminal 88d going to the fuel pump, so I made one up and connected it to the + side of the pump, which is located in the engine compartment down low in the corner by the battery. I have the pump out now as I'm getting ready to order SS fuel lines and wanted it out for the testing anyway. I also connected a ground wire from the pump - to ground. There was no yellow wire on 86a which as I understand should be a source that is only hot 12 volts when the starter is turning. I traced the yellow starter wire back from the solenoid, found a splice where it connected with a purple wire in the engine compartent "harness" and installed a jumper to terminal 86a, after confirming that it is only hot 12 volts when starter is cranking. With everything hooked up that way, and with the white FI side connector installed, pump runs with ignition off, as if the ignition side relay is either stuck or shorted closed. Does that make sense? I can show you pictures of the relay with everything hooked up if you like. Pump is nrmal Bosch high pressure. Car is a 72 that was originally 1.7 and I think with this L Jetronic setup on it. Motor has been replaced with 75 California code 1.8. Still has catalytic convertor on exhaust from the '75, but the smog pump and evaporative control system are gone. My ECU is plugged in, and the car was running well enough to drive it out of my trailer, up the hill, and into my garage, so the ECU was firing the injectors and the ignition was generating spark. But there were so many air leaks on the intake, it ran terribly, and the pump running when the engine wasn't, was a concern of mine, especially since there was fuel in with the oil in the crankcase. Suspected a leaking injector so pulled the injectors, bench tested them for spray and leaks, but all tested good. Replaced the inner and outer seals, all four inners were cracked. So I'm making progress, but this dual relay thing is a problem, even though I think I now have it wired correctly. Thanks